Vagabonding Tendencies

TRIP: Bahamas

2008-10-20T17:43:00.000-07:00

Lunch at Dune.

Dinner at Graycliff, called by Lifestyles of the Rich & Famous one of the top 10 resturants int he world. Result: Fabulous 1700's building and gardens, food inconsistent.

I swam with these sharks. And I did not retouch this photo - I took it over the side of the boat. The water was that clear and beautiful.

Sunny and Mer diving below a plane wreck while a scuba diving photographer captures it.

Chilling at the Versailles pool at One&Only Ocean Club.

Just a few photos from my recent adventure until I can update!

TRIP: Egypt & Jordan

2008-10-03T17:19:00.000-07:00

Solar Boat buried next to the pyramids.

Sitting on one of the 2.5 million blocks that comprise the Great Pyramid.

Holding a baby alligator...or crocodile.

Getting henna in a Nubian Village.

My mom's face is amazing here.

A botanical island in Aswan, Egypt.

The Egyptian Party on the Nile Cruise.

My heaven: Reading early in the morning along the Nile...reminds me of floating up the Irrawaddy River in Myanmar eating chocolates and reading "Burmese Days."

Real newspaper given to us on the flight to Egypt!

Breakfast along the Nile watching the sun rise!

In the middle of the Wadi Rum desert (think Lawrence of Arabia) my 11 year old camel driver whips out a cell phone...

What I would look like as a Bedouin bride.

The inspiration for Lawrence of Arabia's "Seven Pillars of Wisdom" in the Wadi Rum Desert in Jordan.

Sunset over Petra...

Petra, Jordan.

Jerash, Jordan.

I love this. America needs to see this... It was the mural inside of a Christian church in Jordan.

Walk through olive trees along the River Jordan to Christ's baptism site.

River Jordan.

Cairo souk.

Abu Simbel, Egypt

The holy of holies in an Egyptian Temple.

The Siq to get to Petra...

The Siq at night.

Petra at night under the satrs with Bedouin story telling and music...just magical.

We took a hot air ballon ride at sunrise over the Nile and the Valley of the Kings and could see the excavations. I took this from my balloon.

The Bedouin camel herders in Aswan, Egypt. I love the single camel in the distance...

Felucca over the Nile: I took a camel ride from here up to the Monastery in the background, and then on to a Nubian Village.

Temple of Artemis, Jerash, Jordan

Baptism Site of Christ on the River Jordan in Jordan: They even have the marble steps and marker! The river now runs in a different direction. Walking through the Olive trees to get was one of the most soothing and sacred places I have ever been...

Valley of the Kings: This tomb was hdiden high on the hill to prevent tomb robbery. I had to hunch down in a cave-like tomb for 3 levels! I came out as if I stepped out of a steam room. The colors in the tombs are insanely preserved and beautiful.

Island of Philae: We saw the Temple of Philae at night...with the sunset and under a blanket of stars. The original island is now under Lake Nasser -- the entire temple was re-created block by block in the current location.

Highway of the Kings, Jordan: I love animals. These were the most beautiful white and soft camels I have ever seen! We stopped on the side of the road and the baby was nursing from the mother. It made me giddy. I rode camels in both Jordan and Egypt on this trip...and through the Sahara in Morocco.

Temple of Zoser: Pyramids started as just one mastaba -- then a Pharoah wanted his mastabas stacked, then came the bent pyramid and then the Pyramids at Giza. Here I am with my mom and bff. Notice we each have these girl scout looking hankerchiefs which keep you cool!

Breakfast on the Nile at Sunrise in Luxor, Egypt.

Petra, Jordan: The Treasury seen through the Siq passage. One of the most incredible moments in my life. And not just because I had just ridden on a horse like in Indiana Jones...

I saw King Tut's loot in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo, and his mummy in his tomb!

Not King Tut.

Pyramids at Giza: I went inside of the Great Pyramid of Giza, and like Petra and The Great Wall in China, it was one of the most awe-inspiring and spiritual moments of my life.

These are just a very very few from my trip...hope to share more soon!

TRIP: Girlfriends Weekend in Cabo

2008-06-20T17:18:00.000-07:00

Snorkeling off Los Cabos...I loved swimming upside down under Sunny and attacking her like a shark!

Me and Laura chilling under a cabana all day long...una mas pina colada, por favor!

Ween, Me, and Sunny off to the marina to go on a catamaran...

Racing around dry lake beds in buggies! I won!

Me and Laura out on the town...

Clubbing with my gfs...

My 28th birthday - dinner at One&Only Palmilla!

Hiking...

I had an amazing time with my wonderful girlfriends. We are already planning Belize 2009...

Revisiting French Polynesia

2008-05-25T01:27:00.000-07:00

I am still not through sorting my January trip photos from French Polynesia...which terrifies me considering I have Egypt and Jordan for 19 days coming up in August.

San Francisco: After Dark

2008-05-25T00:27:00.000-07:00

An Eclectic Mix of Projects + Memories

2008-05-24T23:45:00.000-07:00

Hello, my name is Meredith and I am an O.C.D. stationary-maker. Seriously. I took a class earlier this year and love to spread out my supplies, put on a Netflix (or 3) and go for it. I love to make envelopes from travel and glossy fashion catalogs. Above are post cards I made with collage pieces I made while studying abroad in New Zealand in 2o02. Below are cards I made out of a Japanese calendar.

Cards I made in my letterpress class.

My apartment a year after moving in. I bought my new chandelier ("Sputnik") and decided I did not need an electrician. So, I called my electrical engineer dad, got some pointers, a ladder, and took out my major tool kit. And I did it. Took down the old and put up the new light. And it felt damn good.

I used the business cards I have collected my San Francisco from the past year to make art for my wall. I like the shape because it mimics the shape of my new light above.

Some cards I made in my Gocco Printing Class.

A book I made in my Japanese Book Binding Class.

Kristian and I met up at 11:30 pm on a Thursday to go to the "Sex & The City" bash at Slide...I wore my new "Carrie" dress and he looked fab in his Mr. Big red tie. I love that we are completely sweaty here after dancing our hearts out...We are food lovers and impromptu dancers. Not bad.

My friend Steve chilling in my apartment on a visit from NYC before hitting the town.

Sailing on the Bay. My fabulous co-worker, Ingrid, invited me to go sailing with her after work for an hour beer can race. I told her I grew up with power boats but get sea sick - she assured me the weather was smooth...well it was the roughest sea in the past year that evening...

Smiling to be on land again. I love the idea of sailing. In reality, I am all about bikinis, power boats and tropical weather!
Colleen came up to the City to eat and dance in the Marina. I love her visits! Especially Sunday brunch.

My little puppy Violet with my mom in San Diego.

My little boy dog Corbin.
A beautiful day at Hotel Coronado in San Diego. I think this is one of the coolest things in California. When I was working down in San Diego, my parents and puppies came down for the day. It was the perfect day = fish tacos, warm sunshine, walking the dogs on the beach, and being with my wonderful parents.

One Year Anniversary: SF + ME

2008-04-08T09:37:00.000-07:00

Carrie Bradshaw first dated NYC, and now San Francisco and I have fallen very much in love. The Chinese New Year Parade marked one year since I interviewed and subsequently relocated three weeks later to San Francisco. I cannot believe how quickly the year has passed and yet how it feels like I have always been rooted here. It reminds me of some favorite lyrics from Magnetic Fields: “The days go by too slowly, but the years go by too fast.” To commemorate the occasion, and in the vein of High Fidelity and my compulsive list-making nature, I compiled my San Francisco Top 10. When I moved here Laura D. gave me a Moleskin Blank San Francisco guidebook which is now filled with lists and notes and maps of treasures I have found and am eager to share from my past year’s journey…

(1) FAV SATURDAY: Ferry Building farmer’s market sampling seasonal fruit, eating breakfast from stands (Rose Pistola or Hayes Valley Grill), watching the sailboats, and wandering inside to Cowgirl Creamery’s Artisan Cheese Shop, Miette Patisserie, Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker, Taylor’s Refresher (gourmet burgers); Spending the morning at Anji’s hoity-toity fitness club and watching movies on the giant treadmill; Wandering Fillmore, Union, Chestnut, Hayes, and Maiden Lane at some inspiring shops: Ambiance (clothing), Gump’s (housewares), Plantation (housewares), Paper Source, Candelier (housewares), Pirate Store at 826 Valencia, Piedmont Boutique (for your drag queen needs), Britex Fabrics & Pearl Fine Art Supplies (for project supplies); Wandering Historic Jackson Square’s hidden bistros and design stores while eyeing the tree-lined brick buildings that were the few that survived the 1906 fire and earthquake; Or eating at the cute cafes surrounding South Park and shopping for discounted designer duds at Jeremy’s.

(Supperclub)

(2) FAV EATS:
Foreign Cinema, Bar Tartine, Salt House, Slanted Door, A16, Armani Café, Zuni Café, Boulevard, Town Hall, Rotunda Restaurant, Perbacco, Tartine Bakery, Tommy Toy’s, Café Claude, Asia de Cuba, Out The Door, Nob Hill Café, Taylor’s Refresher, Le Coloniel, Nob Hill Café, Mama’s, Caffe DeLucchi, Pizzeria Delfina, Saigon Sandwich Shop, AXIS Café, BIX, Bacar, La Taqueria.

FAV SWEET TOOTH: Swenson’s ice cream on the corner of Union & Hyde while the cable car cruises by the tree-lined streets; 1 a.m. visits to ogle anatomically-accurate delicacies at Hot Cookie in the Castro; Anything at Tartine Bakery; Meyer lemon, passion fruit cream filled, or carrot cake cupcakes from Kara’s Cupcakes; Miette; hot chocolate from ‘wichcraft; honey lavender ice cream at Bi-rite Creamery; Trader Joe’s dark chocolate covered pretzels, raisins, and red Aussi licorice; La Boulange’s cherry macarones.

(3) FAV DRIVE:
Gun your gas down the steepest street (Filbert between Leavenworth and Hyde), drive the crookedest street Lombard (while scanning for Puck & the “Real World” House); to the Palace of Fine Arts (pit stop: watching Quinceañera girls in jewel-hued lace dress princess dresses taking photos and feeding the ducks); through the Presidio; to the Legion of Honor (pit stop: see “The Thinker”) to Land’s End (pit stop: hike along path a la “Vertigo”); through the mansions of Sea Cliff to The Cliff House, which my great-grandfather helped to build the second of three structures (pit stop: hike down to see the Camera Obscura and remains of the Sutro Baths (former huge enclosed Romanesque bath houses) and views of Ocean Beach)…then over the Golden Gate Bridge…

Tangent: My great-grandfather used to bury his toolbox in the sand after working to build the second (and grandest) Cliff House, so he did not have to carry them home on the train. His co-workers made fun of him until the great earthquake of 1906 when they lost everything and he was able to rent out his tools and survive the tragedy.

(Palace of Legion of Honor)
(4) FAV CULTURE:
“Cheeses of France” class at the SF School of Cheese; Photopolymer-plate-making and printing, Polaroid transfers and decal transfers, letterpress notecards and handmade envelopes, and Japanese Bookbinding classes at San Francisco Center for the Book; Chandelier-earring making class at Craft Gym; Gen Art Fashion Show; Vivienne Westwood exhibit, Japanese Tea Garden, and Observatory at the de Young Museum; Olafur Eliasson exhibit at SF MOMA; Winning best gingerbread decorating at work; Gregorian chants at the Gothic Grace Cathedral or walking the meditation labyrinth; Experiencing the gospel choir at Glide Memorial Church; Jazz nights at Café Claude; 80’s cover band “Tainted Love” at Bimbo 365; New Orleans-style jazz from Savoy-Tivoli and Opera at Café Trieste on Saturday afternoons; Reading in the lobby of the Fairmont Hotel on Sundays listening to the harpist or the Jazz brunch at The Palace Hotel; $20 Rush tickets to the SF Symphony; and Classical music bouncing off the buildings of the financial district buildings from a street guy’s boom box early mornings.

(Eliasson Exhibit, MOMA)
(5) FAV INDIAN SUMMER:
Picnicing under oak trees listening to jazz at Filoli House & Garden; Lounging under the stars listening to the SF symphony in a Sonoma vineyard; Driving Napa County with stops to: sample desserts at Greystone at The Culinary Institute of America, lunch at Julia’s Kitchen at COPIA (Julia Child’s restaurant in Napa) and ogle delicacies at Dean & Deluca; Dining on Italian in Mill Valley; Canoeing the Russian River; Hiking Yosemite and taking in Sonora & Columbia in Gold Country; Watching the Blue Angels jetfighters from my rooftop; Laughing, cheering, whistling, and drooling (“Yeah, you”) in unison with half the gays in Castro when “Sixteen Candles” aired for Film Night At The Park; Partying in the Panhandle as naked superheroes ran Bay to Breakers; Picnicking in Stern Grove while listening to the symphony.

(6) FAV NIGHT OUT:
Sipping drinks at the Redroom Room at The Clift Hotel (a la Ian Schrager); New Year’s Eve at Supperclub with burlesque acrobats; Bachelorette party at Asia SF with HOT female impersonators; Drinks at password-required speakeasy Bourbon & Branch; Dancing at the Starlight Room at the Sir Francis Drake Hotel on Halloween; Drinks with music from another era at French-Vietnamese inspired Le Coloniel or Top of the Mark, listening to live jazz at Shanghai 1930, or watching the faux rainstorms and band on a moving boat at Tonga Room.

(Clift Lobby)

(7) FAV EUROPE IN SF:
Grab your journal or novel and head to: Blue Bottle Coffee Co (66 Mint St), Belden Lane, Café de la Presse, Café Claude, Grand Café, chocolate-covered macaroons from Stella Pastry in North Beach; Bar Tartine (lavender-infused French toast!), Jackson Place Café (hidden in a historic brick alley and frequented by hip architects).

(Blue Bottle Coffee shown)

(8) FAV WORKOUT: Scavenger hunt during Chinese New Year Parade; Riding bikes down Embarcadero; Channeling Gwyneth during Pilates reformer class at Dharmaspace; WAKA kickball (GO Spicy Pumpkins!) in Golden Gate Park; Being one with nature at Muir Woods; Hiking the sutro baths at The Cliff House; Night Giants baseball game; Chasing dogs at Huntington Park and swinging on the swings! Thigh workouts from hanging on to motorcycles and scooters up to Twin Peaks for a view of the city;

(2nd Cliff House shown, which my great grandfather worked on; it burnt down and the 3rd Cliff House stands today)

(9) FAV NEIGHBORHOOD TREASURES: Cable car Hyde line through tree-lined Union & Hyde; Italian dinner in North Beach; Buddah Bar in Chinatown and shopping Cantonese Bazaar, Old Shangahi & Asian Renaissance. Mint & Jessie where my favorite coffee shops and lofts reside in a hidden gem of an alley. Hiking the steps to Coit Tower (listen for the parrots of Telegraph Hills) and stopping for drinks and a city view at Julius’ Castle. Hidden gardens and stairs: Macondry Lane, Filbert Steps, hidden garden off of Taylor, and rooftop gardens all over the Financial District.

(10) FAV HOME TURF: Riding elevator at Westin St Francis for a city view of the city; Union Square at Christmas: the giant Christmas tree, roasted chestnut booths, wreaths in Macy’s windows and giant snowflakes on Sak’s, and sampling Williams Sonoma’s mulled cider (this flagship store also offers cooking classes); Opera echoing through Maiden Lane on Saturdays; Take-out from Out the Door or Uncle Vito’s and watching Netflix; Hanging off the edge of the cable car on crisp mornings down Powell Street; Seeing the Bay Bridge everyday; Laying out on my rooftop with views of the whole city; Passing Vince Vaughn and Sean Penn on Powell; Watching Conan O’Brien filming in San Francisco; Following in the footsteps of “The Maltese Falcon” by eating at Historic John’s Grill and seeing the plaque from where Miles Archer was killed above the Stockton Tunnel at Burritt Alley off of Bush; Locations from “So I Married An Ax-Murderer”; Walking to the terrace garden at the Ritz; My über cool fully sustainable work building.

Thank you to the many wonderful friends and family that honored me with their presence this year!

A Tribute to The Grand Tour

2008-03-19T15:55:00.000-07:00

Watch Out London!

The Grand Tour was an upper-class European travel itinerary that flourished from 1660 until the 1840s to intellectually, socially, ethically, politically and morally educate. The Grand Tour served as an educational rite of passage and offered exposure both to the cultural artifacts of antiquity and to the aristocratic and fashionable society of the European continent. A grand tour could last from several months to several years. To learn more: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_tour

So, if Kara had a voice right now, she would groan about the above diatribe of "Professor Mer," referencing my often passionate tangents in topics that endlessly fascinate (me). But she listens, as always. I met Kara in 1999 during an English creative writing class and was instantly drawn to her slouched and frankly, "bored" stare as the professor lectured. And then I stalked her and tried to date her (her version)... I just knew, as we rarely do in life, that I had come in contact with a kindred spirit and I would never be the same.

Kara is on her Grand Tour -- she quit her job as a copyrighter for a large firm in Salt lake City and hopped a flight to visit family in Hong Kong for one month and is now is London to fulfill her dream of living (again) there and writing a young adult novel. Although I miss her daily phone calls (Tangent: My I-POD shuffle just turned to "All By Myself" by Eric Carmen - and yes, this makes me laugh and almost burst into tears!), I am so incredibly proud of her bravery, independence, and zest for life. A Grand Tour like hers is rare to occur in anyone's lifetime (there are so many excuses, no?!)-- and I know she will cover as much internal geography as she she physically has. And isn't that what vagabonding is about anyway?

So cheers to Kara's journey, our past journeys to London, Hong Kong, China, Bali and beyond, and to the unknown! P.S. Her blog is on my link under Kara the Knitting Prodigy.

San Francisco City Guide (In Training)

2008-03-12T12:58:00.000-07:00

The Palace Hotel - Garden Court

http://www.sfcityguides.org/

I am super excited to be in training to be a San Francisco City Guide. SF City Guides is a non-profit organization sponsored by the SF Public Library and a project of the Tides Foundation with more than 300 docent volunteers who offer 30 different FREE tours every day of the year! I have 8 full-day Saturdays of training from SF historical experts from archaeologist to scientists to preservationists to decedents of prominent families activities. I will take tests, research chosen areas, and study before I am qualified to develop and act as a guide on 1.5-2 hour tour. My favorite tours thus far are Bawdy & Naughty (about prostitution on Maiden Lane) and The Palace Hotel (which I think I want to lead). The tours are amazing because the city comes alive as you learn about the hidden architectural details, culture, and people of the time. After the course, I will probably lead one tour per month to begin. Our knowledge and accuracy is peer tested and we are encouraged to continue to research and develop expertise in our area.

Last week was my first training in the Presidio and we heard from the Presidio archeologist and a botanist about the native flora and fauna in the city. The class of 50 students is mostly older folks (50 and up), who my law school friend, Leeann, who called O.W.LS. (aka Older Wiser Learners). OWLS are characterized by persons who have been so far removed from the scholastic setting as to be oblivious to common student etiquette. Typical OWL Behavior: when there is 5 minutes until the lecture is over and the teacher says he needs to quickly wrap it up, the OWL continues to obliviously raise his/her hand and ask very details non-relevant and tangential questions while other non-OWLS roll their eyes, wiggle in their seats, faint from pre-lunch hypoglycemic attacks and stare at the clock as it ticks overtime.

I am most excited to learn about Victorian times in the Haas Lilienthal Mansion next month! It is amazing to hear from all the historians and experts about the city that I love so much. Every month guides have special tours -- this month we are going behind the scenes of the Opera House, Symphony, and other Civic Center buildings. I'll keep you posted.

PS The Presidio was amazing on Saturday -- it was the perfect day -- learning about the hidden battery caves under the Park and then wandering down to Crissy Field to watch the dogs and owners frolick to getting my $19 haircut in the Marina and buying stationary-making supplies from Paper Source and getting a killer sandwich from Luca - a traditional Italian Deli. And then going home and making stationary for 6 hours and watching Netflix! The next morning I was off to San Diego for work and have photos and stories to come!

PHOTO: Underwater Moorea

2008-03-03T07:50:00.000-08:00

A fellow-cruiser took this of me. I free dove down to lift this shell off the ocean floor. Who knew these actually existed outside of tropical markets?! : ) It had some clam-like sea organism inside that the locals called a Seven Finger (although it looks like 6 to me). I was so giddy. Definitely a trip highlight.

Photography: New Years 2008

2008-02-20T11:42:00.000-08:00

I took these photos of my brother, Ryan, and his wife, Anji when they chilled with me on New Years. I love the low light...

TRIP: Bora Bora

2008-02-07T10:24:00.000-08:00

Bora, Bora, French Polynesia: Everyone asks me which island was my favorite...and hands down it was this one. It has been called the most beautiful island in the world, and it was insane. Despite the torrential rain, we went on an outrigger canoe ride around the island, stopping three times to snorkel in the lagoon and the lagoonarium (netted off portion of the lagoon). I love animals and we have an adventure wall at my parents' house with mom/mer photos in the sahara, safaris, scuba diving, holding tigers, etc. This day will definitely make the wall! This was the first snorkel site. None of the photos have been adjusted and these were with a point and shoot...the colors are real! These are black-tip sharks. We held onto a rope that floated on top of the water and they came right up to us with no barrier. The sting rays crossed over to us but not the sharks, who were being fed by the guides.

It is illegal in French Polynesia to swim with turtles in captivity because sunblock kills them. I took the photos above water at the lagoonarium and reflected fondly on my swimming with them in Barbados (and a future trip to swim with them in the Galapagos!)

This photo just makes me smile. My mother is adorable. Soaking wet and in a poncho on the boat... My mother has the best attitude of anyone I have ever met and is just a pleasure to be around. I miss her already... And a woman on the trip asked her if she had "implants"...I looked over like, no the twins are real! (she meant my mom's teeth!)

I love my face. Note it is similar to a photo I have being attacked by a small camel in the Sahara. I had sting rays on me all day until one gave me a "hickey" on my arm and drew blood! (the guides put food under for them to be all over you and they suck it up). I love feeling how soft them were, but was a bit on edge when their stingers rubbed all over me thinking about Steve Irwin!

My calm mother "petting" a sting ray! She turns giddy about animals just like me.

We swam in a confined area with lemon sharks that were 8 ft!!! They were cool with us as we snorkeled around...

This is the true color of the water in one part of the lagoon. No photoshop. The colors defy belief.

Us looking a little warn out from the rain...which magically stopped everytime we snorkeled!

This is a photo of a morray eel. They are about 6 ft in length and velvety to the touch. I free dove in Rangiaroa and in Bora Bora to hand feed them face-to-face in a cave. This one is in capativity so the guide fed it and we all held it while it swam by...we loooooved how soft it felt -- like silk.

One of the many fish in the water. I did not have an underwater camera so this is above the water...

Snorkeling in the lagoonarium...

Overwater bungalows int he back run up to $7000 per night in Bora Bora...friends of our ordered breakfast in a canoe and it cost $400!!!! Still more photos to come...

TRIP: French Polynesia & Marquesas

2008-02-04T16:00:00.000-08:00

Due to time contraints I am going to be adding photos from one island at a time...

Moorea, French Polynesia: We went on a Catamaran sailing and snorkeling trip. It rained all morning so I got sea sick when we were out on the open swells. It was really amazing to see Cook's Bay (where Captain Cook landed). Later we went snorkeling over these giant Polynesian tiki statues (Think Easter Island style)underwater and I found a giant seven-finger shell...photos to come. It was a Sunday and at the small port I was taking photos when I heard the most beautiful choir ever singing hymns through the open windows of the octagonal church. It was rainy, I had my camera...It was perfect.

My mom and her noodle. She makes the most hilarious faces when she has snorkel gear on. I was PADI certified when I was 12 and my whole family used to dive together growing up. My mom gave me defective genes as both of us have probelms equalizing while my dad and brother can go straight down 100 feet. Urg. Oh well, the water was so clear, snorkeling was perfect!

Raiatea, French Polynesia: It was a rainy Sunday so all the shops were closed while we took a boat out to a local pearl farm. After learning about the process of culivating pearls (note: it is way more complicated than you think), we were able to snorkel around the pearl beds.

This is the pearl farm way out in the ocean. It was much farther than it looks in this photo.

These were the pearls retrieved during the demonstration. I only bought one thing on my trip (this is a new record for me): a silverish pear-shaped pearl with a gold pendant. He threw in one of the pearls in the dish for me and I gave it to my wonderful m0ther and favorite travel companion!

These, this, it = the oyster's genitalia and where they insert a piece of another oyster's mantel (the top of the oyster where it touches the shell, coloring it and future oysters) and a small round piece of Mississippi shell to start the pearl.

These are the really expensive cultivated pearls. My oldest friend (she hates when I say this as she is not ancient but I have known her the longest) complimented my finger modeling...this is quite a compliment as when she was 12 she held the Teddy Graham in the commercial for the same.

Rangiroa, French Polynesia: It is an atoll, so flat and surrounded by a lagoon and motu islands = amazing snorkeling. Here are a few photos from our day... The photos do not capture how insanely beautiful the water was... Our cruise ship in the distance...

We were walking down the beach and this dog jumped into the water, took a swim, and then decided to chew and play with the buoy for our Sea Doo. What a life... Oh yeah, and his name is Vodka.

You can see the overwater bungalows in the distance. We stayed over-water bungalows in Faa'a (yes, 3 vowels in a row!) in Tahiti for 3 days before the cruise. More photos on that later.

These kids played in this water the entire day. I remember how I used to be a water baby growing up. In third grade our teacher made us write a paragraph starting with: "When I get married..." (yes, that was public school) I actually put "He has to go swimming with me sometimes." I had my values lined up. (It also said he would be blonde, a businessman, and flush the toliet when he is done -- don't ask - I have no idea)

This was the water we snorkeled in. They fed the fish and we were surrounded -- it looked like a National Geographic or IMAX movie. I free dove down about 15-20 feet to feed a moray eel face-to-face -- it was amazing! The fish were every color and the clams were huge and colorful like in cartoons!

The reality of paradise...

My mom let me cruise on full-blast (she screamed and begged me to to stop...hahahah [insert wicked villian laugh])...and the dolphins raced our Sea Doos! (See photo below)

The Cruise:

Mom and I eating at the specialty restaurant on the ship.

I have insane packing skills. I had fancy party dresses every night and yet only a small suitcase and a carry-on!

Mom and I posing on the ship before dinner...this part of the ship was near the piano bar where an Irish woman entertained us and 30 Germans : )

I only used a nice camera on land...and most of trips were snorkeling with lots of torrential rain -- so here are the fun point-and-shoot shots! Blogger is not liking a lot of my nice Nikon photos from other post...but I am working on it!

TRIP: Tahiti Sampler

2008-02-01T10:28:00.000-08:00

Here are a few untouched photos from our French Polynesia and Marquesas Islands trip...I'll upload more soon.

WISH LIST: If I Were A Rich Girl

2008-01-10T12:46:00.000-08:00

I have been to 10 of 12 cities in this pack and still want it...

My dream loft in San Francisco...

Decorated with "Barcelona" furniture...

The Deadly Seven Sins Mrs. Strong stationary collection is divinely wicked...

My favorite table...which I would buy if I had the space!

Calling cards...where is the romance of having someone dial in your number into their I-Phone?

I love these. I went to buy them from Gump's for my family for Christmas, but they were no where as lovely in person. But I still love the idea of them...

My favorite new series on HBO. I actually can afford this and will buy it in February! I wish I could afford Adam Scott...who lives in my dream loft...

Peonies. They are elegant, edgy, wild...I love them...especially in dark red, hot pink and white.

I don't even like perfume. But this bottle is so sexy and gorgeous -- I just want to stare at it!

Mrs. Strong stationary...$7+ for one card. Love it. I have been taking stationary-making classes and this is what I aspire to!

The Scharenzade-3. It is Italian (Fortuny) and the perfect focal point in any room. They just came out with this plain version, which is amazing. I also like the geometric pattern. One day...and $7,000+...

I just love the colors and design of this brand of candles...

I do love black cala lilies as well...

The Buddha Pass gets you into yoga classes all over...all I need is cute yoga shoes!

Those Swedes really know how to build a fabulous-looking bike! I have a cherry red beach cruiser from my days of living in Santa Monica/Venice Beach...but these SF hills make it impossible!

I love love love the new biofuel fireplaces...no chimney required!

Amazing. I love the vintage Porsche.

The Concubina Light. I saw this in magazine ads all over and then discovered it at Lightology.com

I love all things elephant -- riding them, feeding, them, statues and photos of them. They are my favorite animals. I hope to spend a vacation volunteering at a rescue (being a surrogate elephant mom) in Chiang Mai or Tanzania someday...

The most lovely peonies I have ever seen!

The ultimate travel accessory...from Smythson of London...

Netflixing Tendencies (Documentaries)

2008-01-09T07:41:00.000-08:00

So, I don't have cable. But...I do get 5 Netflix at a time, which translates into a lot of movies over the past nine (9) months since moving to San Francisco. I love to watch my movies and make stationary and do projects. I've rated 1245 movies and always have 500 movies (the max) in my queue. My favorite categories are thriller, documentary, and television. I try to consistently have documentaries that teach me about areas of the world, politics, and current issues--an eternal student, I suppose. I wrote my opinion after the doc summaries in brackets. And not in any particular order, drumroll, please:

Best Documentaries:

1 I Know I'm Not Alone* - Michael Franti -- a multifaceted artist known for fusing diverse sounds -- takes his camera and guitar to the war-torn Middle East in this thought-provoking film that captures the costs of global conflict. Experiencing the realities of war firsthand without the support or protection of outside help, Franti ventures on his own into chaotic neighborhoods in Iraq, Israel and the occupied Palestinian territories and documents what he finds. [AMAZING MUSIC THAT CROSSES CULTURES. I CRIED.]

2 The Bridge- Over the span of a year, director Eric Steel's cameras capture tormented souls attempting to commit suicide by leaping from San Francisco's Golden Gate Bridge. Through poignant interviews with family, friends and eyewitnesses, the film reveals a common thread of depression, despair and chronic mental illness. This provocative documentary further reinforces the landmark's iconic legacy as the world's most popular suicide destination. [SHOCKING AND CONTROVERSIAL. BUT I COULDN'T STOP WATCHING...ESPECIALLY THE LAST SCENE]

3 Stolen- In 1990, thieves absconded with 13 masterpieces -- including works by Rembrandt and Vermeer -- from Boston's Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, pulling off the greatest art heist in U.S. history. Rebecca Dreyfus's investigative documentary delves into this modern mystery, piecing together clues gleaned from archival documents, art critics, historians, collectors and informants (both credible and dubious) to shed light on the as-yet unsolved case. [INTERESTING CRIME STORY]

4 God Grew Tired of Us* - After raising themselves in the desert along with thousands of other parentless "lost boys," Sudanese refugees John, Daniel and Panther have found their way to America, where they experience electricity, running water and supermarkets for the first time. Capturing their wonder at things Westerners take for granted, this documentary, an award winner at the 2006 Sundance Film Festival, paints an intimate portrait of strangers in a strange land. [I CRIED. AND LAUGHED. AND CRIED. INSPIRING AND EYE-OPENING]

5 In Debt We Trust- Filmmaker and former journalist Danny Schechter (WMD: Weapons of Mass Deception) investigates Americans' ongoing love affair with credit cards and the staggering level of personal debt it's created, paying special attention to the relationship between Congress and the credit card industry. In a modern society that's increasingly "financialized," consumer debt is so common that extending credit has become highly lucrative. [EVERYONE NEEDS TO WATCH THIS. TERRIFYING TO LOOK AT OUR CULTURE...AND OUR OWN CREDIT CARD DEBT]

6 Unknown White Male* - Filmmaker Rupert Murray tells the true story of Doug Bruce, a man who woke up on a New York subway with no clues as to who he was, other than a random phone number and a British accent. Documenting Doug's quiet terror upon discovering he has no memory of his former life -- and his detachment when meeting friends and family he's known for years -- this intriguing film explores the true nature of identity. [MAYBE MY FAVORITE DOCUMENTARY. DEEP, POIGNANT, REFLECTIVE...MAKES YOU QUESTION WHY YOU ARE THE WAY THAT YOU ARE. BEAUTIFULLY SHOT]

7 Deliver Us From Evil- This unsettling Oscar-nominated documentary from filmmaker Amy Berg investigates the life of 30-year pedophile Father Oliver O'Grady and exposes the corruption inside the Catholic Church that allowed him to abuse countless children. A mix of victim stories and a disturbing interview with O'Grady provides a view into the troubled mind of the spiritual leader who moved from parish to parish gaining the trust of congregations ... all the while betraying so many. [WELL-MADE DOCUMENTARY ABOUT SEX SCANDALS FROM POINT OF VIEW OF OFFENDER. EDUCATIONAL]

8 I Like Killing Flies- Documentarian Matt Mahurin peers into Shopsin's, a hole-in-the-wall Greenwich Village restaurant that's been dutifully serving comfort food to satisfied customers for more than 30 years. Lording over the eatery is hilarious, ersatz philosopher/owner Kenny Shopsin, who caters to such regulars as writer Calvin Trillin. Shopsin dispenses tough love with his okra chowder and is just as likely to throw out customers as take their food orders. [FUNNY. SAD. QUIRKY. ENJOYABLE]

9 Capturing the Friedmans- A family in crisis is "captured" through real home video. The Friedmans, an average upper-middle-class Jewish family in Great Neck, NY, found their world turned upside down when the father and son were charged with child molestation in 1987. The media inundated the airwaves with coverage of the alleged crime, but some of the best footage was shot by the family themselves -- seen publicly for the first time in this documentary. [INTERESTING PERSPECTIVE. SHOT BY FAMILY MEMBER. EXAMINES ONE OF CASES IN 1980'S OF ALLEGED CHILD MOLESTATION. I BELIEVE, ON A GREATER SCALE, THIS DOC ADDRESSES THE CULTURAL PHENONMENON IN THE 1980'S OF INTERROGATING CHILDREN AND TRUTH IN MOLESTATION CASES ]

10 Vice Guide to Travel*- Brought to you by the off-center oddballs at Vice magazine comes this controversial travel companion to the strangest destinations around the world loaded with danger, drugs and debauchery. Trek to the slums of Rio, see the fallout rubble in Chernobyl, and witness the illegal weapons trade in Pakistan with footage from crazy correspondents who are willing to try anything -- and travel anywhere -- at least once. [MY VAGABINDING BROTHER INTRODUCED ME TO VICE AND I AM NOW AN ADDICT. THEY GO EVERYWHERE YOU ARE TOLD NOT TO GO]

11 Beauty School of Kabul- Proving that vanity and the pursuit of beauty are universal, this 2004 documentary tracks a group of American women (including some Afghan émigrés from the 1980s) who open a beauty school in Afghanistan. Though there are culture clashes aplenty, moments of true kinship also transpire over curling rods and comb-outs as these women from divergent worlds labor in the name physical beauty in director Liz Mermin's refreshing film. [MY MOM INTRODUCED ME TO THIS BOOK. I LOVED GETTING TO KNOW THESE WOMEN -- THE CULTURE, THE FRIENDSHIPS, AND HOW A BEAUTICIAN INSPIRED A NATION OF WOMEN]

12 A Crude Awakening: The Oil Crash* - Produced by award-winning filmmakers Basil Gelpke and Ray McCormack, this documentary examines the world's dependency on oil and the impending chaos that's sure to follow when the resource is depleted. Straight from the headlines, this hot-button topic may represent the world's most dire crisis. Through expert interviews, the film spells out in startling detail the challenge we all face and underscores our desperate need for alternative energy. [I CRIED. THIS IS TERRIFYING. EVERYONE NEEDS TO WATCH THIS FILM TO SEE THE TRUTH]

13 24 Hours on Craigslist- After logging on to craigslist.org for a mere 24 hours, filmmaker Michael Ferris Gibson reeled in a bevy of juicy postings from the online bulletin board, including the want ads "Flogging for flowers" and "Will marry gay guy for money." But his documentary really took off when he hit the streets to meet the people behind the postings. Bonus materials include outtakes, an interview with craigslist founder Craig Newmark and director commentary. [INTERESTING LOOK AT ANONYNITY ON THE INTERNET. IF YOU WANT TO SEE THE REAL CRAIG, LOOK IN EXTRA MATERIAL. LONGER THAN NEEDED, BUT A GOOD DOC NONTHELESS]

14 Leonard Cohen: I'm Your Man - A host of popular artists -- including Beth Orton, Nick Cave, Rufus Wainright and the U2 boys -- come together for a memorable evening of music at the Sydney Opera House, paying tribute to legendary songwriter Leonard Cohen. Producing a piece that's part concert film and part documentary, filmmaker Lian Lunson combines footage from the show with archival material and intimate interviews, resulting in a fascinating portrait of a gifted tunesmith. [I HONESTLY DID NOT KNOW WHO LEONARD COHEN WAS WHEN I RENTED THIS MOVIE...BUT I STILL LOVE D IT -- THE MUSIC IS INSPIRING AND THE DOC IS BEUATIFULYL MADE]

15 The Sound and The Fury- Josh Aronson's documentary takes an unexpected approach to the "medical miracle" film by examining the political and emotional turmoil that erupts between brothers over the cochlear implant that might allow their deaf children to hear. The ways in which a so-called miracle cure can divide as well as heal families and communities is the focus of Sound and Fury, which received an Oscar nomination for Best Documentary Feature. [REALLY FASCINATING LOOK INTO THE LIVES OF TWO VERY DIFFERENT BUT RELATED DEAF FAMILIES. OPENED ME UP TO A WORLD I HAD NEVER SEEN AND VERY REAL ISSUES IN A WORLD OF TECHNOLOGY]

16 Jesus Camp- This riveting Oscar-nominated documentary offers an unfiltered look at a revivalist subculture where devout Christian youngsters are being primed to deliver the fundamentalist community's religious and political messages. Building an evangelical army of tomorrow, the Kids on Fire summer camp in Devil's Lake, N.D., is dedicated to deepening the preteens' spirituality and sowing the seeds of political activism as they're exhorted to "take back America for Christ." [TERRIFYING. YOU WILL BE SHOCKED...IS THIS REALLY AMERICA?]

17 Anatomy of Desire - The lengthy debate over the origins of homosexuality continues in this wide-ranging and often humorous investigative documentary. The "nature vs. nurture" question arises, magnified by how scientific fact and social viewpoints have sculpted our ideas about the cause of homosexuality. The impression that being gay is a fixable problem is also a prevalent thought, especially in one community that tries to outline and contain homosexuality. [INTERESTING]

18 The Empire in Africa - Director Philippe Diaz exposes some of the issues the movie Blood Diamond touched upon in this award-winning documentary on the atrocities that occurred in Sierra Leone, West Africa. In 1991, a civil war exploded in this tiny, diamond-rich country, fueled by a rebel group against exploitative Western interests. But instead of coming to the aid of the people, the international community manipulated an election and used violent means for their own ends. [INFORMATIVE. SAD. THE REALITY OF AFRCIA]

19 This Film Is Not Yet Rated - Kirby Dick's provocative documentary investigates the secretive and inconsistent process by which the Motion Picture Association of America rates films. Dick questions whether certain studios get preferential treatment, exposes the discrepancies in how the MPAA views sex and violence, and reveals the association's efforts to control culture. Interviewees include John Waters, Darren Aronofsky, Maria Bello, Atom Egoyan, Kevin Smith and more. [WORTH WATCHING TO LEARN ABOUT CENSORSHIP IN AMERICA. LONG, BUT WORTH AT LEAST HALF!]

20 Orwell Rolls in His Grave - Documentary filmmaker Robert Kane Pappas presents a riveting argument for his theory that America is under an Orwellian watch with the rise to prominence of the radical, right-wing Republican party, an ascent aided, unwittingly or not, by the mainstream media. Here, Pappas interviews an impressive roster, including Center for Public Integrity director Charles Lewis, legal analyst Vincent Bugliosi and liberal filmmaker Michael Moore. [INTERESTING. AND ORWELL IS MY FAVORITE AUTHOR, SO I HAD TO WATCH!]

21 Who the #$&% Is Jackson Pollock? - When brash trailer park resident Teri Horton bought a secondhand painting for five bucks, little did she know it could be a genuine Jackson Pollock worth millions. This film documents Horton's volatile 15-year journey into the heart of the art world's elitist establishment to have the painting authenticated. The clash between stuffy art dealers and the cussin', beer-drinkin' Horton is funny, eye-opening and utterly unforgettable. [FUN DOC ABOUT ART AND TRUTH AND GARAGE SALES.]

22 Nine Good teeth - Mary Mirabito has nine good teeth, and that's a positive thing considering she's 104 years old and has lived through life's joys and tragedies large and small, coming out wiser and wittier on the other side. Documentary filmmaker Alex Halpern captures Mirabito's charm in this engaging film in which the Italian-American grandmother shares her memories and hard-won wisdom while retracing the defining moments of her life. [MAKES YOU SMILE...NO MATTER HOW MANY TEETH YOU HAVE]

23 - Thin - Filmmaker Lauren Greenfield chronicles six months in the lives of four women undergoing treatment for eating disorders in this revealing documentary. Powerful and haunting, the film follows four anorexics ranging from age 15 to 30 as they undergo therapy sessions, endure daily weigh-ins and battle with staff at a Florida treatment center. With unprecedented access, Greenfield captures the stark realities of eating disorders from multiple angles. [SCARY AND A VERY REAL SUBJECT]

24 - Born Into Brothels* - This Oscar-winning documentary is a portrait of several unforgettable children who live in Calcutta's red-light district, where their mothers work as prostitutes. Spurred by the kids' fascination with her camera, Zana Briski, a photographer documenting life in the brothels, decides to teach them photography. As they begin to look at and record their world through new eyes, the kids awaken to their own talents and sense of worth. [ONE OF MY FAV DOCS EVER -- REALLY INSIRING AND OFFERS REAL INSIGHT INTO ANOTHER WORLD]

25 - The End of Suburbia - This provocative documentary, a regular on the film-festival circuit, examines the history of suburban life and the wisdom of this distinctly American way of life. A post-World War II concept, suburbia attracted droves of people, giving rise to sprawl and all that comes with it -- good and bad. How has the environment been affected by this lifestyle, and is it sustainable? Canadian director Gregory Greene dares to ask all the tough questions. [ANOTHER INSTERESTING LOOK AT HOW OUR COUNTRY WAS DESIGNED BY GM TO BE RELIANT ON CARS, AND ULTIMATELY FUEL.]

New Year's 2008

2008-01-04T13:30:00.000-08:00

We ate our first meal of the new year at the Rotunda Restaurant at Neiman Marcus at Union Square. The lobster and applebacon club sandwich and celery soup were divine!!! The stained class ceiling has a ship with a latin phrase meaning which is currently escaping me. To learn more: http://www.noehill.com/sf/landmarks/nat1975000471.asp The Christmas tree started four stories below and the star was above our eye level. The night before...

(Above) Me on my couch before the Parisian Party. (Below) Anji enjoying the view from my roof.

My brother and his wife came up to spend New Year's Eve together in San Francisco. I came home from work with my apartment dimly lit, dinner stewing, and ambiant music playing. We feasted on a perfect meal and then got decked out to go La Peche Rouge ("Red As Sin") party at Supperclub. www.supperclub.com The music was awesome, especially after midnight, when a electric gutiarist got on a platform and rocked out to the electronica music. I danced with a Latin Lover I met and it took me back to being in South America. SF has the world class acts of NYC without the insanity. We were tempted to go the Brazilian Girls play but we made an excellent choice watching drag boehmian Parisian dancers and a lady on stilts dancing with feather fans high in the air-- very surreal. Supperclub also serves multi-course meals and hopefulyl Becca and I will there for Taste of SF this month. I'll post more photos as Ry sends them.

Happy New Year!

All Hallow's Eve

2007-11-02T12:18:00.000-07:00

Laura and Colleen came up to the city for a fab night out dancing and eating Thai at 1 am. The music was great but what is up with guys acting like "A Night At The Roxbury"? And remember how I had to roll out of bed the next morning and go to work?!

TRIP: Miami

2007-11-02T12:07:00.000-07:00

I am finally tan. And in November! I spent a long weekend in Miami with my wonderful friend Steve. We stayed at The Shore Club, ate amazing gelato, read on the beach, partied by the pool (our favorite was Sunday night's "Babydolls and Bathrobes" party - the best people-watching ever), ate stone crab and visited the Art Deco boutique hotels. I have documented said tan as the burn has tanned and it will fade in the next two weeks behind my cube : )

TRIP: NYC

2007-11-02T12:02:00.000-07:00

I took the train from Philly for one night to visit NYC and my good friend Steve. We went out to visit some favorites: West Village, Central Park in autumn, and out on the town to Buddahkan. This dress was my Chicago splurge!

TRIP: Philly

2007-11-02T10:43:00.000-07:00

Longwood Gardens - These lily pads from South America can hold 150 lbs!

After my Chicago trip I hopped over to Philly where my mother was at a convention. We visited her old roommate from Michigan. I loved PA! This is Elfreth's Alley, a historic site. We saw the Liberty Bell, went to the most incredible Anthropologie ever (in a historic mansion), saw medical oddities at Mutter's Museum, ate at amazing old taverns, and had a great time!

We visited Longwood Gardens, which is an incredible estate with neverending gardens. Autumn is my favorite season and I love gourds. My mother is Martha Stewart via Orange County and our house always has heirloom pumpkins, corn stalks, and gourds this time of year. My mother is my best friend and it was too short a trip for us! She is too cute!

The fountain was dyed pink for Breast Cancer Awareness! It got everyone's attention!

Mom and me in Bucks County at fabulous shops...There was a scarecrow contest and we decided this was the winner -- Scary Mary Poppins! Second place was Sunny and Cher-Crow. The weather was so perfect in autumn... I could see myself in an old house with lots of trees in PA! It felt like real-life "Gilmore Girls"...

This made me laugh as everything is historical except this pub.

TRIP: Chicago

2007-11-02T10:19:00.000-07:00

I spent two weeks in the Chicago area for work, and in the city for weekends with my fabulous friends Kara and Katerina.

We took an architectural boat cruise in the city and out on Lake Michigan...

Kara and I posing in my favorite nook -- cloisters in the middle of the city!

We listened to amazing Jazz Sunday night at the legendary Green Mill. I also listened to the Blues at Buddy Guy's Legends and that was incredible as well.

I think "The Bean" is genius. It is the most interactive artwork ever. I had more fun watching people lay on the ground, jump, find each other, take wedding photos with it...what more can art be about?

Kara, Katerina and I at dinner downtown. Katerina just moved from Salt Lake City to Chicago and has an amazing wraparound view of the city from her high rise apartment. I am so jealous!

MY PROJECTS

2007-09-10T18:56:00.000-07:00

These are details from my photopolymer platemaking and etching class. It took me 3 plates and all day to perfect this plate. It started as a digital image and then a plate was made (with photopolymer you etch that and not actually the copper plate), and then inked and made a print which looks like an old lithograph. I loved this photo from my Morocco adventure, but now I really really love it!

Poloaroid Decal (excess ink after lift emulsion)

Polaroid Lifts

House Projects

When I was in the souks of Marrakesh I wandered from stall to stall looking for my dream light. I ended up in the back where they make everything and custom-designed my hide lamp down to the finial. When I wanted to hang this high in my bedroom, 2 different men laughed at me because it was going to be really tough with a concrete ceiling. So...I rented a concrete drill which I carried home 10 blocks. Then I balanced an IKEA-style low table on my bed and placed a desk chair on top...yep, and I balanced on there while drilling three holes with a concrete drill. Every time I look up at my light I feel quite accomplished.

This bookshelf looked pretty boring before I lined it with chocolate burlap. The photo does not do it justics -- it makes such a nice impact! I love my toolbox that my dad gave me when I went to college!

I know, I know. I have no "before" photo. Just imagine a weird white wood protrusion in your closet from a bookshelf on the other side and that is what it looked like...before I went CRAZY one day and decided it needed to be my accessory wall. I covered it with black burlap (3 trips to Britex Fabrics) because I had already hung up some tack nails (so they would not go through the other side) and could fit the fabric over the nails. I also really love the texture it gives while highlighting my jewelry. I always purchase these things wherever I travel so looking at that wall literally takes me back! I also used black burlap to line my bathroom closet.

This is the most creative and funny X-Mas gift I have ever gotten. I love you Laura Daines for cross-stitching me a theme phrase.

My Dogs

2007-09-10T16:38:00.000-07:00

Someone at work thought I was not truly a dog lover because I did not have photos of my dogs on my desk. So...here they are. Corbin and Violet...who my dad calls "the kids" -- I totally feel torn for living an urban lifestyle (which I love) that is not a good dog environment. Gives me a reason to go visit the OC. I feel pangs every Saturday I go to the Ferry Building Farmer's Market and see people with their dogs. Do they look like me? I totally think people buy dogs that resemble them... I totally gave (Ms.) Corbin gender-identity problems by dressing him up in bows since he was a puppy. He would totally fit in in SF.

Scherenschnitte

2007-08-28T15:45:00.000-07:00

I completely stole this post from Becca -- it was her camera and her craft night for Ladies Activity Club. For more details on the craft and background (stolen from Cindy) see: http://www.thenewawesome.blogspot.com/

I arrive all giddy and in definace of my SF walking city (i.e. in fabulous new red heels)...the girls looked at me like I was insane...which I might be when you see the project I produced over the next 4.5 hours of constant cutting with an Xacto blade. When we were picking up patterns I asked Becca: "Is this too hard?" And she responds with her darling little smile: "No, not at all." Yeah. I was ready to slit my wrists and took breaks only to binge on treats... In the end the group wanted me to frame it...which will not be happening. You can see the detailed finished projects on her blog (it won't upload right now). But the above is here for my friends who always tell me to post all of the many random projects I do. xox

GEN ART Fashion Show - SF Fashion Week

2007-08-23T11:52:00.000-07:00

Last night I took my friend Colleen to the GEN ART Fresh Faces in Fashion Show at The Regency Center in San Francisco. I had been given two VIP front row tickets to the event. It was fabulous! At the pre-party we had Shu Umera false eyelashes applied and at the post-party we had head, neck, and shoulder massages to the beat of the DJ -- it was really cool -- I am all about the techno massage. The fashion show was really inspiring and I got to gush to my favorite Project Runway contestant ever - Kara Saun (she was robbed by Jay!) . Love her. It was just one of those nights... PS The entire event was sponsored by Botox. I was actually tricked (for like .35 seconds) when the guy next to me told me the packet had a free syringe of Botox (it was a pen). We got fab goodie bags (I snagged 3 including Fredericks of Hollywood thongs and make-up brushes , oh my!). The fab front row gay designers tried to guess who designed my dress and cooed that it had no label and was from a boutique in Dallas. Above is a photo of Colleen and me -- venting session: why do people cut off your legs (and my fab stillettos) in photos? Is is really that hard to take a decent photo?

The main web address is: www.genart.org

Link to the event page is: http://www.genart.org/event.view.htmitemid=1938&cacheid=1187647470.
9045&amp;amp;amp;origin=&genart=2jlhve7b051h728tcsk70b4tu0

If you are in town this week (I am jealous!) because there are Fashion 101 Workshops at the W Hotel including celebrity hairstyling, fashion shoots by fashion photographers, etc. for $35-$50! See: www.fashionweek-sf.com under workshops.

The Perfect Date

2007-08-13T11:38:00.000-07:00

I usually don't post personal photos, but some random guy off the street perfectly captured myself and bestie Laura while devouring bread pudding and Scharffen Berger chocolate pudding at Tartine Bakery in San Francisco's Mission District...this is why I love photography!

Random Abstract Photography

2007-07-16T12:58:00.000-07:00

Self-Portraits

2007-03-14T07:28:00.000-07:00

Where I feel most at home. Henna is still on my hands from Maroc.
Pre-dinner. The Normandie Hotel. Puerto Rico.

Experiment with the complex lighting of a cabin.

Photography: SAN FRANCISCO

2007-03-08T21:07:00.000-08:00

I spent last weekend in San Francisco for a job interview. I brought only a point-and-shoot Nikon to take photos of friends. I was actually really happy with some random shots I took the night of the Chinese New Year Parade. The crazy light photos are of the Chinese dancing dragons during the parade. I should be in bed right now but I have had enough comments about updating my blog...so Enjoy! I am still trying to find time to sort Morocco and Caribbean photos...I think these show you that it doesn't matter how big (or expensive) your camera is, just if you know how to use it!

PHOTOGRAPHY: Morocco (UPDATED)

2007-01-14T17:46:00.000-08:00

TO SEE MORE PHOTOS CLICK ON THE FLICKR BADGE (box with photos) TO THE ABOVE RIGHT --> Press View Photo Stream then Press View Slideshow on top right.

*** I just updated the above 10 photos. These have been adjusted slightly in Photoshop, whereas my Flickr photos have not. I am still slowly sorting through the 1000s of photos. The above are only from my 3 days in the Sahara.

This was the first trip I went on where I actually knew how to use my camera. My flash was broken so I was creative with light sources and tried to use many sources in each photo. My mother and I spent 15 days traveling throughout Morocco - we KNOW the people (nomads, middle class, high class -- we did it all). How did I spend my New Year's Eve? I pulled over to the side of the road and watched a rural farmer slit the throat of a sheep for Eid Al-Adha, which symbolizes the saving of Isaac by Abraham. What surprised me the most was how it had no effect on me (I am the animal lover who this trip alone: road a camel and a mule, and paid to have photos with camels, snakes, iguanas, and a kid [baby goat]. We froze for 3 nights in the Sahara desert, had a camel trek through the dunes, woke up to a pitch black tent with my mother puking everywhere, had to pull over the 4x4 on a rural farm while my mom had the "runs" and bore her white bum to a group of farmers that gathered to watch her [while I ran around her holding a sarong trying to shield her from passing traffic and gawkers while not getting sick myself -- it is funny NOW]. Asia taught me to bargain and I did quite a fabulous job -- my favorite buy was a custom hide lamp shade painted red. I bought 4 calftans which I pulled tight on me and mirror while the shop owner owed at my "American" style. I will upload more photos on FLICKR when I have time, but here are a few of my favorites.

My mother and I have both have a fascination with Morocco. The hydrofoil was broken when she wanted to go from Spain 30 years ago, and I studied in Spain in 2003 specifically to go to Morocco -- then the bombings in Casablanca happened and I stayed in Europe. I found this amazing package that includes 3 nights stay in the Sahara and cooking lessons with Nomads!!! My mom and I left it up to serendipity if we would go since you usually have to book 1 year in advance...and when I called last weekend there was 1 room left for 2 people! Some of you may think "I would never go on a tour." Here is the deal: It is cheaper, more organized, is relaxing to get to do everything and not have to plan it, to have a native guide, and 20 years of connections with a native country. I found that my cruise up through Myanmar with The Orient Express allowed me into monasteries on floating islands, into schoolhouses in the jungles, into homes, etc. -- all things that would have been really difficult without a private guide. Also, in countries such as Morocco, Myanmar, and China, I prefer to have a guide for safety. I also met amazing people in these countries that were lifelong friendships. This tour company was rated as one of the top 15 tour operators by "Travel and Leisure" Magazine for the past 5 years and yet the prices are a fraction of the other companies in that category (such as Ambercrombie & Kent) and include air. OAT caters to off the beaten path travel and has amazing Amazon, Nile, and Safari trips...look it up: oattravel.com

MOROCCON SAHARA ODESSEY ITINERARY - OVERSEA ADVENTURE TRAVEL

DAY 1 Depart from the U.S You depart in the early evening on an overnight flight to Casablanca. The flight takes 15 hours from LAX.

DAY 2 Arrive in Casablanca, Morocco/Overland to Rabat We view the city’s bustling marketplace, its ornate Islamic architecture and the Hassan II Mosque. Built in the late 1980s, this is the second largest mosque in the world, after Mecca. We stop for introductions over coffee and tea, and then continue overland to Rabat. It takes us about 90 minutes to drive to Rabat. Today, and each day until we reach the desert on Day 6, we travel in a comfortable air-conditioned minibus. Near mid-day, we’ll arrive at our hotel and have a light lunch and briefing. Depending on your arrival time and hotel check-in policy, you may not be able to check into your room immediately upon arrival. Your Trip Leader will advise you of our check-in status and activity schedule for the day when you arrive. During the afternoon, you can relax and rest up from your flight. You may want to take a quick look around in Rabat or discuss your special interests with your Trip Leader. In the evening, we have dinner at our hotel

DAY 3 Explore Rabat/Discover Salè After breakfast this morning, we have a brief introduction to the Arabic language before heading out on a guided tour of Rabat. We see the exterior of Rabat’s Royal Palace and visit the ruins and wild gardens of the Chellah, a 14th-century Merinid necropolis. We walk in the Andalusian Gardens, within the walls of the kasbah of the Oudaya. We stop at the Hassan Tower, a huge unfinished minaret, built mostly at the end of the 12th century. We take our lunch in a local restaurant in Rabat. After lunch, we have an elective, included excursion into the ancient Roman town of Salè, Rabat’s sister town — you may choose to join us, or rest up. Here we have an opportunity to walk around this walled city and discover Morocco as it was many years ago. We return to Rabat in time for our Welcome Dinner at a local restaurant.

DAY 4 Roman Ruins at Volubilis/Tour of Meknes/Overland to Fez After breakfast we leave Rabat and drive overland to the Roman city of Volubilis on our way to Fez. We explore the historic ruins, and our Trip Leader can help you envision what life was like in ancient times. We enjoy the panoramic, whitewashed vistas of the holy city of Moulay Idriss. We continue driving past the tree-covered slopes of Mount Zerhoun, which marks the beginning of the Rif Mountains, passing through the monumental gates of the walled city of Meknes. We enjoy lunch before we depart for a tour of Meknes, a city of bustling markets, elaborate gardens, and centuries of history. Later, we arrive at our comfortable hotel in Fez, where we stay for two nights.

DAY 5 Explore Fez/Visit the medina/Home-Hosted Dinner After becoming oriented with a panoramic hilltop view of Fez, we leave our bus, the twentieth century, and all previous conceptions of urban design behind to enter the Fez medina, often considered the most well-preserved medieval city in the world and designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The medina is a dense honeycomb of streets far too narrow for vehicles. Every inch of space is filled with bazaars, cafés, shops, and people. You can’t help but be amazed at the intensity of life bursting around every corner — and at the clean and fresh-painted quality of this vibrant display of age-old urban tradition.Led by our Trip Leader and city guide we walk through myriad tiny lanes and have lunch in a quiet, sky-lit restaurant. We also explore the traditional Jewish quarter called Mellah, view the King’s Palace, and the Nejjarine Fountain. Our day in Fez is classic adventure: something new at every turn and an environment unlike any you have ever seen. After lunch you’ll visit a carpet cooperative and learn about both handmade Berber and the more modern urban carpet designs. The rest of your afternoon is at leisure — to continue exploring Fez or return to the hotel. We enjoy a home-hosted dinner with a local family this evening.

DAY 6 Overland across the Middle Atlas Mountain Villages/Classic Tented Camp in the Sahara Our Sahara odyssey begins here! We drive across the Middle Atlas Range, winding through beautiful pine groves and giant cedar forests. The contrast of the rich purple soil and the tall evergreens is magnificent. We cross a 6,000-foot pass in the mountains and head further toward the Sahara with views of the Ziz Gorges and the Ziz Valley. Along the way we stop for lunch in the Kasbah Asma of the town of Midelt. In Erfoud, a small trading village that is the gateway to the vast Sahara desert, we stop to transfer to our 4x4 vehicles. These vehicles seat seven, but we travel with just four passengers in each. Our Trip Leader rotates his seat among the vehicles and provides evening orientations so that nothing is missed. In about another hour of driving we are deep in the great Sahara, surrounded by waves of towering golden dunes. By sundown we arrive at our spectacular tented campsite. Against a backdrop of the Erg Chebbi sand dunes, the highest in Morocco, our tents are set up and waiting for us. The total driving time today is nine hours with many photography stops. In camp, we hear a talk about the “Blue Men” of the Sahara, a group that originated in Timbuktu. Tonight we experience the full majesty of the Saharan night, and neighboring nomads may drop by with their musical instruments as we sit by our campfire.

DAY 7 Camel Ride/Visit with Moroccan Family/School Visit/Overland to Second Desert Camp/Desert Off-Road Adventure If you wish, you can rise before dawn today to watch the sunrise in the Saharan dunes. After breakfast, you have the chance to venture into the desert the traditional way — on the back of a camel, for about an hour of riding. Next we make a short drive to Rissani, where we have a family home visit. After lunch at a local kasbah, we visit a local primary school for a glimpse of Moroccan culture through the eyes of its children. Though the children do not speak English, your Trip Leader can translate, and the challenge of communicating in other ways can be both amusing and rewarding. We then follow an unmarked route for less than three hours to our second private tented campsite, deep in a sea of sand dunes near Daya El Maider. This is our home for the next two nights. We experience the remote environment of the Sahara: no roads, no people except an occasional nomad, and total silence as we navigate the sandy tracks. Should we encounter some nomads en route, we'll stop to visit. In the late afternoon we gather around the dining tent for afternoon tea. Keep your journal handy as our Moroccan chef gives us a lesson in preparing Moroccan cuisine. Most Americans are familiar with couscous, a nourishing staple of Moroccan diets, but savory discoveries abound in this exotic cuisine: harissa, a fiery sauce made from hot red pepper, olive oil, and garlic; tajine, a slow-cooked stew named for the pot that it’s cooked in; and the crowning glory of bstila, squab pie made with 100 individual layers of flaky dough. We’ll come away with not only a delicious meal, but also some authentic cooking tips to take home with us.

DAY 8 Optional Desert Hiking/Visit Nomadic Families Today we absorb the feeling of the extraordinary desert environment. We are camped where few foreigners venture, along routes known only to the camel and goat-herding Tuareg nomads. For those who wish, our guide will lead a walk into the desert during the cool of the morning. We then take our 4x4 vehicles to visit nomadic families nearby, returning to camp for lunch. You have the afternoon free for catching up with your writing, reading, or even just some rest! Your Trip Leader will guide hikes into the dunes for those who wish to participate. At camp in the late afternoon, we hear a talk on the basics of Islam. We spend our last night camping under the starry desert sky, with the Milky Way uncannily clear and bright. Get your wishes ready — you may see enough shooting stars to last a lifetime!

DAY 9 Learn About Berber Culture/Cross the J'Bel Sahro Range/Overnight in Tinerhir After breakfast, we take a one-hour hike in the desert and then depart from our camp. We stop at a Berber cemetery to learn about Muslim funeral customs. We then visit a local family and learn about the challenges and rewards of harvesting crops in a desert environment. Afterwards, we have lunch in a local restaurant. In the afternoon we make a two-hour drive to the oasis town of Tinerhir. Crossing the J'bel Sahro Range (at about 4,500 - 5,000 feet), we have a spectacular view of the High Atlas Mountains. We check into our hotel in Tinerhir and have dinner at the hotel. After our days of “roughing it” in the desert, we can enjoy a cool drink and a hot shower in our comfortable hotel

DAY 10 Visit Dar Taleb/Explore Todra Gorge/Hand Painting After breakfast at the hotel, we’ll drive to Dar Taleb, a local organization that pays for rent and school supplies for impoverished children. OAT makes regular donations to help support this organization. We’ll follow up our visit with a walk in the Oasis to witness local farmers and learn about the native vegetation. Then, you may choose to join us on an optional trip to one of Morocco’s most spectacular natural environments: the Todra Gorge. Craggy and colorful rock walls up to 1,000 feet high loom over a lush narrow valley dotted with oasis-like date palmeries and irrigated fields of grain. In contrast to the much-anticipated Sahara, these gorges may be the most unexpected pleasure of the trip. You can join your Trip Leader on an elective, hour-long hike if you wish to explore its depths. We have lunch in a restaurant here in the gorge. Once back in Tinerhir, you may elect to visit the Hamman, sweat baths that comply with Islamic laws of hygiene and purification. In the evening, we are invited to a local home where Berber women offer a demonstration of a regional custom. These Moroccan women will show us how they apply intricate traditional designs to their hands with paint made from the henna plant native to North Africa. The henna patterns are intended to foster a sense of closeness to God and traditionally adorn a new bride’s hands, feet and face. You may have a chance to choose your own design from among traditional patterns, including one popular design that is said to protect the wearer from the evil eye! Women in our groups have tried this distinctively Moroccan-style accessory, with great success! We have dinner at our hotel in the evening under a nomadic tent

DAY 11 Dadès Gorge/Home-Hosted Lunch/Overland to Ouarzazate After breakfast at our hotel, we drive into the Gorge du Dadès, distinct from the Todra Gorge with its fields of fig and myriad vegetation. Later in the morning, we hike through Berber fields at Äit Oudinar and learn about the surrounding vegetation. Next, we call at the home of a local family. Here we share tea and observe how the local people make bread. We enjoy a home-hosted lunch today with residents of a local kasbah. Then we travel for about two hours to the town of Skoura. Here we take a short walk through palm-studded fields. From across the river we have a spectacular view of the Amerhidil Kasbah. We end our day in the larger oasis town of Ouarzazate, originally created by the French as a garrison outpost in the Sahara. We enjoy dinner at the hotel tonight.

DAY 12 Citadel of Aït Benhaddou/Overland to Marrakesh After breakfast today, we begin a six- to seven-hour drive to Marrakesh. We break up the trip with photo and rest stops as requested and some planned stops at sites of exceptional interest. First, we visit Aït Benhaddou, a picturesque, citadel-like village on the side of a mountain. Scenes from the classic films Lawrence of Arabia and The Man Who Would Be King were set here. We visit an active village inside the walled area. Our journey continues toward the High Atlas Mountains, high above narrow green valleys. As we begin to cross the High Atlas Mountains, we stop in a Berber village for lunch. In the late afternoon we reach Marrakesh, where we enjoy our comfortable hotel, complete with swimming pool and gardens. We settle in here for three nights.

DAY 13 Explore Marrakesh In the morning, we explore this legendary city in a traditional horse-drawn calèche. We visit the Saadian Tombs, the Bahia Palace, the Moorish spice market and a Berber pharmacy with natural medicine, as well as the famous medina of Marrakesh, one of the ancient crossroads of North Africa. The afternoon is free for you to relax, to shop for fine Moroccan craft items, or to venture out with your Trip Leader to hear live entertainment in the city square. Dinner this evening will take place in Jamaa El Fna Square, a celebrated section of the city.

DAY 14 Independent Exploration in Marrakesh You have today free in Marrakesh, where past travelers have greatly enjoyed time for independent exploration. As in Fez, there is much to see, do, and buy in the bustling medina. If you haven’t done so already, be sure to check out the high-energy street performers in the legendary Djemma el Fna Town Square, or simply enjoy the comforts of our hotel.Many travelers find the city’s greatest attraction to be its souks, which offer an inexhaustible variety of sights, flavors, and aromas along narrow, winding streets. You’ll have the time to experience this endlessly fascinating side of Moroccan culture at your own pace. Tonight we have a farewell dinner at a local Moroccan restaurant.

DAY 15 Return to U.S.

Raul Touzon Photographs

2006-12-09T13:20:00.000-08:00

Raul was another one of my insanely talented San Miguel photography instructors. Look him up. He just made my Saturday by sending me three prints and a cd of photos he took of me and Jenny in Guanajuato. I am just so amazed by how he captured the light in this underground tunnel. He is one who showed my dad how to get the "twirl" photo below.

Me captured by David Alan Harvey

2006-11-22T13:43:00.000-08:00

Photography: National Geographic Trip

2006-11-21T09:56:00.000-08:00

(I am actually twirling in this picture my dad took of me...)

I just got back yesterday from one of the most insane and amazing weeks of my life. I learned how to use my camera. I learned from three of the world's top photographers how to capture and create moments...it is beyond words. We had a morning edit/critique and an afternoon shoot -- sometimes up to 14 hours a day. Here are a few images from the week. I will write and post more later... Look closely at the pictures (there are many layers -- like the first one with the beggar through the car glass). Click on the pictures to enlarge them -- you really miss all of the amazing details when you skim the thumbnails... (PS Some of these were taken while I hung off the back of a 4-wheeler my dad was driving!!!!) (*** More photos are on flickr) I have 1000s more...but those are just a few...

TRIP DETAILS:

People keep asking my about my November trip to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, with a top National Geographic Photographer...so here are the links. NG has AMAZING trips for archaeology, family, adventure, photography -- for a price. www.nationalgeographicexpeditions.com/

WHAT TO EXPECT: The National Geographic Photography Workshops are limited to 25 participants for both amateur and serious photographers who want to learn the techniques used to capture and select the amazing images for National Geographic's books and magazines. Price includes workshop tuition, accommodations, services of the National Geographic instructor and one or more other instructors, meals as indicated in the itinerary, model and location fees, and local transportation.

ITINERARY: 7 DAYS

Day 1—Home/San Miguel, Mexico
Arrive in San Miguel and check into the La Posada de la Aldea. Gather for a reception and dinner with your instructor. La Posada de la Aldea (D)

Day 2—San Miguel
After breakfast this morning, meet for a presentation by the National Geographic photographer. After lunch, take a walking tour of San Miguel and embark on your first photography assignment. Tonight, enjoy a photography presentation at the Teatro Angela Peralta, the three-tiered theatre next to the Jardin, the heart of downtown San Miguel. (B, L)

Day 3—San Miguel
Begin with an early morning photography walk, followed by breakfast and a critique of yesterday's images. After lunch, depart for a hacienda outside Querétaro. This working, privately owned hacienda continues to be a training ground for bulls and matadors for the magnificent bullfights, and is a stunning example of historic Mexican architecture. (B, L, D)

Day 4—San Miguel/Guanajuato/San Miguel
Depart for Guanajuato, designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site and known as a beautifully preserved colonial silver-mining center. This lovely town has a distinct European flavor and is easily explored on foot. The city is a fascinating maze of twisted alleys and narrow cobblestone streets. Some of the places you will discover in this 16th century town include the Teatro Juarez, site of the famed Cervantino Festival; the highly photogenic downtown municipal market; and the Jardin Union, a tranquil gathering place for locals every afternoon. (B, L)

Day 5—Pozos
After breakfast, spend time editing your previous day's images followed by a group critique led by your instructor. In the afternoon, travel to the old silver mining town of Pozos to photograph pre-hispanic dancers. (B, L, D)

Day 6—San Miguel
Start with a morning photography shoot. After critiques, enjoy an individual assignment around San Miguel to practice all you have learned during the past week. This evening, gather for dinner and our "Best of the Week" image presentation at Villa Jacarandas restaurant. (B, L, D)

Days 7 and 8—San Miguel/San Martin*/Home
We have timed our November 4 workshop to be in this region during San Martin Caballero, an annual event held just outside the small town of San Martin de los Terreros. This is one of two events in all of Mexico where horses are blessed in honor of San Martin Caballero. People walk and ride for days to attend this celebration, bringing between 1,500 and 2,500 horses to be blessed during a mass held outside of town. We will arrive at sunrise to photograph this dramatic event in the beautiful morning light. The afternoon is free to explore San Miguel on your own. Depart for the airport the next morning. (B) www.nationalgeographicexpeditions.com/517.html (MY TRIP)

Yoga Retreats

2006-11-10T12:18:00.000-08:00

I found out today that my dad and I are making the FOURTH roadtrip from CA-TX to be back in LA for our 6am flight to Mexico on Sunday morning. American wanted $100 to change my frequent flyer ticket and over $1000 to re-route my dad's ticket...even though the ticket was from LAX to DFW to Mexico. They should be happy we just didn't want to take the LA portion and just start and end in Dallas!!!! Instead of letting us start at DFW and selling the LAX to DFW portion they make us buy a new ticket. I usually make the trip FAST because I drive 100 mph...but got a ticket in northern TX ($300) last week for going 82 mph in a 65 mph (night speed limit - whatever those are). So I need some zen in my life and to dream about who I would be (calm & patience) if I only spent a weekend at a fab zen retreat...especially the one in the Bahamas!!!!!

As applied to the yoga movement, nothing could be further from the truth. A philosophy of life, not a religion; a questing science, not a dogma--yoga is the most tolerant of creeds, its practitioners good-humored, broad-minded, and modest, non authoritarian. At the U.S. ashrams, nothing is mandatory other than attendance at the asanas (physical exercises or postures) and silent meditations--and that, only to screen out persons who are simply seeking a cheap crashpad for their vacations. Apart from those two limited daily sessions, no one cares what you do or where you go, or whether you even attend lectures of the guru.

The Sivananda Ashram Yoga Retreat
On Paradise Island, the Bahamas: You've heard of Club Med, now meet Club Meditation (at a fifth the price). The ashram that's a 150-bed tropical resort, it sits next to sugary-white sands, across the bay from Nassau on four beachfront acres donated to the Sivananda Vedanta movement by an admirer; the popular, otherworldly complex has now been in operation for over 30 years. You arise at dawn to meditate on the beach, proceed immediately (and before breakfast) to a two-hour exercise class (asana), partake at last of a mammoth vegetarian brunch, and are then allowed to do nothing at all (except swim, snorkel, and sun) until 4 p.m., when a second round of meditation and asanas is followed by supper at 6 p.m., meditation at sunset, and bed. Accommodations range from airy dorms in a colonial building ($59 per person per night, including meals and exercise classes) to double rooms in modern cabins ($$69 to $79, to campsites ($50) overlooking the sea. Contact Sivananda Ashram Yoga Retreat, P.O. Box N7550, Paradise Island, Nassau, Bahamas (phone 800/873-YOGA), or e-mail Nassau@sivanda.org. Web site: sivananda.org/nassau.

Kripalu Center
Near Lenox, Massachusetts: In the many wings and 450 rooms of a former Jesuit monastery, on a hillside overlooking Lake Mahkeenac in the Berkshire Mountains of western Massachusetts, Kripalu is one of the largest of all ashrams, with one of the most varied programs--its brochure resembles a college catalog crammed with courses and options. Soothed by the ministrations of a largely unpaid staff of volunteers, you exercise, meditate, wander, and soak; attend seminars; dine in complete silence at breakfast but converse at dinner. Accommodations are comfortable, in spacious dorms (6 to 22 people) of wide-frame, wooden double-deckers, or in pleasant private rooms, and yet the all-inclusive charge--for housing and all three meals, exercise classes, and most other activities--is a reasonable $106 to $120 per person in the dormitories, $176 to $225 per person in a standard double room. Write or phone Kripalu Center, P.O. Box 793, West St., Route 183, Lenox, MA 01240 (phone 800/741-7353 or 413/448-3152 (within state), or visit its Web site at kripalu.org/).

New York State (2)

The Yoga Ranch, at Woodbourne, New York: About two hours by bus from New York City, it occupies a stunning setting atop a wooded hill, looking down into a valley and up onto another hill, the mountains of the Catskills receding into the distance. Dotted about are open areas devoted to organic farming or used by grazing deer. On the extensive grounds, a one-acre pond is deep enough for swimming, while nearby stands a stone-faced sauna, wood fired, rock-heated, and steamed by pure, mountain spring water--one-of-a-kind. "You'll be doing good for a lot of people if you recommend us," said the co-director at the end of our talk. "They come here with jangled nerves, and then leave completely restored." The charge for that revival is an astonishing $60 per person on weekdays, $55 on weekends, $15 more for an apartment with a private bath (half price for children ages 5-12, free for children under 5), including yoga asanas (exercises), meditation, accommodation in twin or triple rooms, and two vegetarian meals. Write or phone Sivananda Ashram Yoga Ranch, P.O. Box 195, Budd Road, Woodbourne, NY 12788 (phone 845/436-6492, or visit the Web site at sivananda.org/ranch.htm).

Ananda Ashram, in Monroe, New York: Despite its daily teachings of such classic yoga regiments as hatha yoga (stretching) and pranayama ( breath control), the 41-year-old Ananda Ashram has a far less pronounced Eastern orientation than some others: it schedules meditation for as late as 9 a.m. on weekends, invites guest teachers from all religious disciplines, and presents classes in creative music, drama, dance, holistic healing, and visual arts. Less than 90 minutes by bus from New York City, at the base of the Catskill Mountains, it occupies 85 wooded acres, including a private lake, and houses 405visitors in three main guesthouses, for an all-inclusive room, meals, and tuition charge (on seven-night stays) of $280 to $400 per week (dorm vs. private double). Discounts are available for couples, students, seniors, and youths under 18. Contact the Ananda Ashram, 13 Sapphire Road, Monroe, NY 10950 (phone 845/782-5575 or visit the Web site at anandaashram.org/).

California (4)

The Yoga Farm, at Grass Valley, California: Cheapest of the residential ashrams--$45 per person in a tent, $55 per person in triple rooms, $65 (double) and $115 (single) in several others, including vegetarian meals and two yoga classes--but the smallest also, with space for just 40 guests, the farm was the personal favorite of the late Swami Vishnu Devananda, founder of the Sivananda movement. Like thousands of others over the years who have driven up the 50 or so miles from Sacramento and then followed dirt roads to the isolated setting, he valued the special simplicity and quiet of this rustic, three-building resort, with its changeless routine of meditation/exercises/free time on weekdays, its weekend seminars on yoga philosophies and practices like vegetarian cooking, Ayurveda, and panca karma (an ancient method of flushing toxins from the body). In the free-time period, as you hike to the top of an adjoining hill and lie daydreaming on its crest, you see the majestic Sierras spread out before you. A very special place. Write or phone Sivananda Ashram Vrindavan Yoga Farm, 14651 Ballantree Lane, Grass Valley, CA 95949 (phone 800/469-9642, or visit the Web site at sivananda.org/farm).

TheWhite Lotus Foundation, in elegant Santa Barbara, California: Some 1,800 feet up the mountains just behind the city, overlooking the Pacific Ocean and the Channel Islands, and founded in 1967 White Lotus is currently directed by Tracey Rich and Ganga White, author of the book Double Yoga. Its principal emphasis is on yoga and related disciplines (bodywork, shiatsu, acupuncture, acupressure), conveyed to guests through workshops, seminars, and classes throughout the year. A 5,000-square-foot central building provides some of the accommodations, but most guests stay in three- to four-person yurts scattered about the 40 acres of grounds. Personal retreats and classes in yoga can be pursued at any time of the year, at a $85-per-day charge, which does not include meals (participants buy and cook their own food in a central kitchen), but more elaborate one-week and 16-day "intensives" are scheduled at frequent intervals throughout the spring, summer, and fall, and these include meals prepared by a noted vegetarian chef, Beatrix Rohlson, as well as morning-till-night classes (in-depth yoga training). Since the weather of Santa Barbara is mild even in the winter (daytime temperatures in the upper 60s or low 70s), yoga-inclined travelers might schedule a personal visit at that time of year, at the daily tariff. To reach this contemporary, eclectic yoga center, contact: The White Lotus Foundation, 2500 San Marcos Pass, Santa Barbara, CA 93105 (phone 805/964-1944, or visit its Web site at whitelotus.org/).

Ananda, The Expanding Light, near Nevada City, California: A strange amalgam of faiths, this is the yoga ashram located on the grounds of a larger utopian community known as the Ananda World Brotherhood Village. The "town," 1,000 acres in size, was formed in 1967 by practitioners of yoga from varied religious backgrounds, who regard yoga as complementary to other faiths. Today, at the retreat center, 200 visitors can engage in a retreat of classic yoga practices--early-morning and late-afternoon asanas and sadhanas (guided yoga meditation)-- supplemented by classes and workshops on yogic and meditational themes. The daily charge starts at $37 for campers bringing their own tents, $59 per person in a double room, $120 for a delux private single room, including all three vegetarian meals and classes. Ananda is 15 miles from Nevada City, the latter is 70 miles north of Sacramento. Contact The Expanding Light, 14618 Tyler Foote Rd., Nevada City, CA 95959 (phone 800/346-5350, or visit its Web site at expandinglight.org/).

In the Santa Cruz Mountains of California, overlooking Monterrey Bay--you can't imagine a more enthralling location--is another leading retreat facility, founded by the followers of Baba Hari Dass. Thousands head there each year for long weekends or week-long vacations that combine hiking in the redwood forests and cavorting in the open air, with attendance at classical ashtanga yoga classes (of the type described over 2,000 years ago by Patanji in the "Yoga Sutras"). Though the emphasis is on postures and meditation, the center offers a number of classes that could fall into the realm of "karma yoga" which is the ideal of selfless service. To that end, the center explores topics of healing (with classes on Ayurveda and Chinese medicine), organic gardening and peaceful living ("Zen and Yoga," "The Heart of Compassion"). Room and two vegetarian meals daily, supplemented by snacks, ranges from $46 per person (in a tent supplied with mattress; $32 if you bring your own tent), $54 (in dorms housing four to seven), $61 (in a triple room), to $69 per person (in a double), $92 in a single, per day, to which you add an average of $190 per weekend for tuition relating to the courses or seminars you've chosen. All this is but an hour from San Jose Airport, an hour and a half from San Francisco Airport. Contact Mt.MadonnaCenter, 445 Summit Road, Watsonville, CA 95076 (phone 408/847-0406 or Web site: mountmadonna.org/).

Still other possibilitiesThe large, 34-year-old Himalayan Institute of Pennsylvania is yet is yet another major center of yoga practice and studies, yet so diverse in its programs that it is practically impossible to describe. A 24-page catalog lists all its weekend, weeklong, 10-day, and month-long investigations throughout the year into every aspect and theory -- sometimes conflicting -- of the yoga literature; it is for serious students of the art, and beginners may feel in over their heads! Figure $65 a day for a double, $75 for a single, all inclusive (with dorm accommodations), for most weeklong and longer programs, which do include beginners' classes in hatha yoga (physical exercises) and meditation, of which those for beginners in meditation are especially popular. If you do attend, you'll be housed on a 422-acre campus in the hills of the Pocono Mountains region of northeastern Pennsylvania, six miles north of the town of Honesdale, overlooking spectacular wooded hills and valleys. Contact The Himalayan Institute, 952 Bethany Turnpike, Honesdale, PA 18431 (phone toll free 800/822-4547 or visit its Web site at himalayaninstitute.org/).

In the Laurentian Mountains, an hour north of Montreal is one of the largest and most spectacular of the Sivinanda Ashrams, Sivananda Ashram Yoga Camp. There guests can add canoeing, mountain biking, cross-country skiing, rock climbing and rafting to their yogic fare. Beds in shared rooms with showers cost $80 CDN a day, $510 CDN a week; tent camping (you must provide your own tent) is $45 CDN daily, $285 CDN weekly. Classes, meals, use of the sauna, pool, and skiing are included. Contact Sivananda Ashram Yoga Camp, 673 Eighth Avenue, Val Morin, Quebec J0T 2R0 Canada (phone 800/263-9642, or visit the Web site at www.sivananda.org/camp).

People come from all over the world to live and study at Satchidananda Ashram, founded by the renowned Swami of the same name in 1979 as a model of how people of various faiths and backgrounds can live in harmony. About an hour south of Charlottesville, it's in a magnificent locale--750 acres of secluded woodland along the James River in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The "Welcome Weekend" program offers deep relaxation upon arrival, a tour, hatha yoga classes for beginners, guided meditation, a talk on integral yoga, and an evening session with the swami when he's in residence (usually summer). The food, which includes three vegetarian meals, is excellent and the digs--ranging from dormitory bunks to semi-private to private rooms--are air-conditioned, modern and pleasant. Rates: $60 weekdays, $75 Friday to Saturday in dormitory; $75 Sunday to Thursday, $85 Friday and Saturday in a semi-private room. Camp space is $40 on weekdays, $60 on weekends. Contact Satchidananda Ashram, Route 1, Box 1720, Buckingham, VA 23921 (phone 800/858-9642 or 434/969-3121, or visit the Web site at yogaville.org/).

I have not described the important 2,000-bed Muktananda Center(the "Syda Foundation") in South Fallsburg, New York (phone 914/434-2000), because of its heavy (and somewhat atypical) theological emphasis, which stresses chanting and meditation to a far greater extent than hatha (physical) yoga and exercises. The Syda Foundation discourages casual visitors but is happy to accept potential acolytes.

And in gratitude, I press my hands together beneath my lips, and intone: "Jai Bhagwan" ("I honor the spirit within you").

Photography Expedition Preparation

2006-11-08T08:00:00.000-08:00

I am starting to get a bit nervous about my trip next week to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico for a National Geographic Photography Expedition. The photos in this entry are from my future teacher, David Alan Harvey, who has done 30 stories for National Geographic and was named photographer of the year. My program has only 25 students, and for one week, we have classes , photo shoots and then share with the class. I simply point and shoot. All of the photography of mine on this blog has been on automatic. I know very little about anything technical -- I just record what I see. My camera is a NIKON Coolpix 5700, and will probably be the cheapest one in the program! I was so incredibly moved by DAH's photos that it renewed my hope to learn more technical aspects and hone my skills. To learn more about my trip see the archived blog.

David Alan Harvey: American, b.1944

Born in California, David Alan Harvey studied art and in 1969, after graduate school in journalism at the University of Missouri, went to work for the Topeka Capitol Journal in Kansas. He was encouraged to photograph in color by a grant from the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts. It gave him the means to work freely in his native region and produce a slide-show toured by the museum. Then he went back to black and white to produce work on the Black community and the Civil Rights movement. In the early 1970s, Harvey relocated to Washington and started to work for the National Geographic: his first article (1973) was on a little island of fishermen out in the Chesapeake. Harvey was staff photographer at the Geographic from 1978 to 1986 and then became a freelancer. In 1978 Harvey was named Magazine Photographer of the Year by the National Press Photographer's Association. Harvey spends months on stories around the world, most often for the National Geographic Magazine, including French Teenagers, The Berlin Wall, The Maya Culture, Vietnam, Native Americans, Mexico and Naples. He has shot more than 30 stories for the Geographic and his photographs have also appeared in Life, The New York Times and Sports Illustrated. He has been repeatedly drawn to the passion and lyricism of Spanish culture both in Spain and the New World, which will be the subject of a new book and exhibition centered on Cuba. David Alan Harvey's photography has a lyrical mood and often highlights spectacular backgrounds. His success as a color photographer stems from his synchronization with his subjects and his gift for anticipating the fleeting, revealing moment. He joined Magnum as an associate in 1993 and became a member in 1997.

Vagabond With Exotic Animals

2006-11-08T07:39:00.000-08:00

Global Crossroad's wildlife volunteer program are available in South Africa, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Kenya, Tanzania, and Sri Lanka. Participants will support ongoing wildlife research and preservation efforts while working alongside the conservationists, zoologists, wildlife researchers, and park managers. Program funds also contribute to sustainable development and further protection of the land, nature reserves, its wildlife – simultaneously benefiting the local people.

I like the elephant programs (my favorite animal) or the Noah's Ark so I can help all sorts of animals. I would love to be a surrogate mother to primates!!!!

Hwange Conservation - Zimbabwe

Hwange National Park and the surrounding areas while at the same time witnessing some of the most exciting aspects of the African wildlife .

Lion Breeding - Zimbabwe
Preserve the African lions by producing a quality gene pool and rebuilding the diminishing numbers of lions

Lion Reintroduction - Zimbabwe
Volunteer in Lion rehabilitation program, conservation and research activities in the Victoria Falls National Park.

Born to Be Wild Lion Project - South Africa
Help to breed the lions of South Africa while experiencing the African land and culture.

Colobus Monkey Conservation - Kenya
Conserve the Colobus monkey while promoting a sustainable tourism project.

Olowaru Lion, Elephant Project - Kenya
Help to conserve the lions of Kenya while experiencing the Olowaru land and culture.

Amboseli Elephant Project - Kenya
Help conserve the curious and kind giants of Kenya while experiencing the Amboseli people and culture.

Noahs Ark Project - Namibia
Work for orphaned, neglected, abused and abandoned wild animals.

Wild Animal Rescue Project, Thailand
Provide a sustainable program with a lasting impact, by means of an education program in wildlife and conservation.

Gibbon Project Phuket, Thailand
Rehabilitation of gibbons back into their natural habitat

Migratory Birds' Research Expeditions Sri Lanka
Bird and Marine Biodiversity survey in North West Sri Lanka

Elephant & Rare Leopards Expeditions-Sri Lanka
Conserving Sri Lanka's endangered elephants and rare leopards

Wildlife Rescue - Guatemala
Help protect and conserve the endangered wildlife and the environment in which they are living

ACDI/VOCA 202/383-4961, acdivoca.org, seeking older, experienced people for two-to-four-week trips, expenses paid

Amizade 888/973-4443, amizade.org, one-to-seven-week programs from $530 Conservation

Volunteers Australia 011-61/3-5333-1483, conservationvolunteers.com.au, volunteer for a day or longer, lodging, including meals, from $22 per night

Council on International Educational Exchange 207/553-7600, ciee.org, two-to-four-week projects start at $350

Earthwatch Institute 800/776-0188, earthwatch.org, one-to-three-week trips (tax-deductible donations start at around $800)

Global Crossroad 800/413-2008, globalcrossroad.com, 2-to-12-week teaching programs in Asia, $600--$1,900

Global Volunteers 800/487-1074, globalvolunteers.org, one-to-three-week programs from $1,500, including lodging

GlobeAware 214/823-0083, globeaware.org, Latin America and Asia, starting at $990

Habitat for Humanity International 229/924-6935, habitat.org, 10-to-14-day programs, $1,500--$3,500

SCI International Voluntary Service 206/350-6585, sci-ivs.org, short- and long-term programs, $80--$250 not including transportation

Volunteers for Peace 802/259-2759, vfp.org, over 2,400 programs (two-to-three-week trips to Europe start at $200)

Cooking Vacations

2006-10-30T13:19:00.000-08:00

New York City: The Institute of Culinary Education (formerly Peter Kump's New York cooking school)
Cost: Three-day classes, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., $275-$415; five-day classes, $495; tuition includes snacks, a huge lunch, and wine each day; hotels near the school: Chelsea Hotel, Chelsea Inn, Gramercy Park Hotel. For B&Bs under $100 per night, contact: Affordable New York City, 212/533-4001; City Lights, 212/737-7049; CitySonnet.com, 212/614-3034; Manhattan Getaways, 212/956-2010; New York Habitat, 212/255-8018. Contact: The Institute of Culinary Education (formerly Peter Kump's New York Cooking School), 50 W. 23 St., New York, NY 10011, 212/847-0700, iceculinary.com/.

Boulder, Colorado: Cooking School of the Rockies
Cost: $575 tuition, includes five days of classes, breakfast, snacks, huge full lunch with wine each day. Contact: Culinary School of the Rockies, 637 S. Broadway, #H, Boulder, CO 80305; 303/494-7988, culinaryschoolrockies.com/. How to go & What to do: Fly into Denver and drive 40 minutes to Boulder. Walk off all those calories at the downtown Pearl Street pedestrian mall, where you'll find the Boulder Arts and Crafts Co-op displaying the talent of local artists.

Hudson Valley, New York: Inn to Inn Cooking Vacations
Cost: Three-day classes, Tuesday to Thursday (or weekends in winter) limited to 8-12 people; $380 includes snacks, huge lunches, wine; participants get 10-percent or greater discounts at the following vintage Inns: Aubergine, The Grand Dutchess, Le Chambord, starting as low as $85 per couple per night. Contact: Maren Rudolph, President, Vintage Hudson Valley, provider of Inn to Inn Cooking Vacations, P.O. Box 288, Irvington, NY 10533, 914/591-4503, vintagehudsonvalley.com/ How to go & What to do: The cheapest flights are usually into Albany International Airport, though Stewart Airport is closer to most of the inns. The region's attractions include West Point, Baseball Hall of Fame (Cooperstown), the Hudson Valley Shakespeare Festival in Garrison, Vassar College art gallery (free), Bardavan Theater in Poughkeepsie, the Olde Rhinebeck Airdrome (Rhinebeck), and the Vanderbilt and Franklin D. Roosevelt estates in Hyde Park.

Walloon Lake Village, Michigan: Fonds Du Cuisine Cooking School
Cost: $400 per person (double occupancy); $440 for a single, includes four days (16 hours) of classes, four nights at the inn, breakfast, and a huge lunch/dinner daily; classes run from Sunday to Thursday, October through March excluding the holidays (though Chef Beier is willing to adapt the timing to suit groups). Contact: David Beier, owner and chef, Fonds Du Cuisine Cooking School at Walloon Lake Inn, P.O. Box 459 Walloon Lake Village, MI 49796, 800/956-4665, walloonlakeinn.com/. How to go & What to do: The closest airport is PLN in Pellston, Michigan, 45 minutes away; Traverse City Airport (TVC) is 75 minutes. Skiing, ice-skating, hiking at your doorstep.

Oakland, California: The Art of Thai Cooking
Cost: The $500 tuition includes five days of classes (with a maximum of 12 students) in summer only (though single classes run March through October), from 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., field trips to Asian markets, breakfast, snacks, lunch, and wine; Kasma has a list of nearby B&Bs and motels starting as low as $65 per night. Kasma also takes groups on cooking tours of Thailand: $3,350 for 28 days, including airfare from the West Coast. Contact: Kasma Loha-unchit, P.O. Box 21165, Oakland, CA 94620, 510/655-8900, thaifoodandtravel.com/
How to go & What to do: San Francisco is 20 minutes away; you don't have to rent a car--Kasma picks students up from the Bart station one mile away. Five-day classes are also available, but only during summer months.

Essex, Vermont: Whisk Away Weekends at the New England Culinary Institute
Cost: Chef Inn Training: $189 a couple for a three-course dinner demonstration.
Contact: The Inn at Essex, The New England Culinary Institute, 70 Essex Way, Essex, VT 05452, 800/727-4295 (ask for reservations), innatessex.com. How to go & What to do: Burlington International Airport is minutes away, with a free shuttle to the inn. Nearby there's the University of Vermont, Shelburne (art) Museum, several downhill ski areas and golf courses, scenic cruises and fishing on Lake Champlain, and Ben & Jerry's Ice Cream Factory (closed on Sunday).

Quakertown, Pennsylvania: Cooking at The Inn at Turtle Pond
Cost: $330 includes two nights at the inn, two days of classes, and all meals.
Contact: Turtle Pond, Inc., 210 Axehandle Rd., Quakertown, PA 18951-4904, 215/538-2564, Web address: turtlepondcooking.com/.
How to go & What to do: Turtle Pond is 90 miles west of New York City and 45 miles north of Philadelphia; airports include Philadelphia International Airport, 45 minutes away, and Allentown (ABE airport--Allentown, Bethlehem, and Easton), 25 minutes away. Nearby towns offer hot-air ballooning, an antiques center, and the year-round Main Street Theatre. New Hope, about a 20-minute drive east, on the Delaware River, is full of art-and-antiques shops. Doylestown, the county seat, a 25-minute drive south, is home to the James A. Michener Art Museum, the famously eclectic Mercer Museum, and the Moravian Tile Works.

Secret Hotels of Bali

2006-10-29T11:13:00.000-08:00

I really wish I would have known about these before I spent a fortune at a rundown Hyatt in Bali...

Secret Hotels of Bali budgettravelonline.com

UBUD

Ulun Ubud Resort & Spa
In an open-air workshop just to the west of Ubud, Bali's cultural capital, a young woodcarver is contemplating his latest work--a goddess slowly emerging from a twisted tree trunk. Satisfied at last, he marks the wood and begins carving again. The craftsman's boss is Gus Tu, son of a noted local woodcarver and owner of the Ulun Ubud, which sits next to the workshop. The artistic heritage is obvious as you meander down the paths and steep steps linking the hotel's 22 thatched cottages: Each nook and cranny holds a statue or a carving--a Hindu warrior here, a head of the Buddha there, and everywhere countless carved frogs, fish, shrimp, and crabs. The rooms are simple but comfortable, with bathrooms that could do with a little updating and wide balconies that overlook a lush river valley. The hotel has a reasonable restaurant serving Balinese and Western dishes, and there's a free shuttle if you're inclined to sample some of Ubud's many restaurants. If you take breakfast on your balcony, you may hear the distant chink-chink-chink of iron on stone. Look down toward the river and you'll see that along its banks, local craftspeople are cutting stone to make new carvings, some of which may well show up on the hotel's rambling grounds. 011-62/361-975-024, ulunubud.com, from $75 year-round, breakfast included.

Nirvana Pension & Gallery
I Nyoman Suradnya is a little worried about tourism in Bali: "The relation between Balinese and tourists is too much business," says the artist. At their homestay in Ubud, Suradnya and his wife, Ni Wayan Rai Rupini, who owns several jewelry and crafts shops, are trying to turn tourists into guests. In their family compound, which Suradnya designed, it's hard to say where the home ends and the hotel begins--reflecting, in good part, Suradnya's belief in maintaining the three harmonies essential for a human: harmony with one's god, harmony with other humans, and harmony with the natural world. The rooms blend seamlessly with a stone shrine and Suradnya's open-sided studio, and plants, trees, and songbirds pepper the grounds. There are just four rooms in the homestay ("I want to leave time for my art," explains Suradnya) in two small pavilions. Each room has attractive wood carvings painted in bold reds, greens, and golds; its own bathroom; and a balcony or terrace. For many guests, though, the real attraction is Suradnya. While he's a gifted painter, he specializes in teaching batik, a traditional Indonesian method of patterning fabric using wax and dyes. Suradnya describes the careful processes involved as "meditation in action"--a way to focus on what you're doing in the here and now. As he speaks, his adorable granddaughter jumps up behind him and rings a bell. "We ring that bell to call people to lunch," he says with a grin. "It's how we invite them to come back to the present." 011-62/361-975-415, nirvanaku.com, from $22 year-round.

MUNDUK

Puri Lumbung Cottages
The village of Munduk is a world away from the beaches that draw most tourists to Bali. Life moves at a different pace: Farmers lay out cloves and cocoa beans along the road to dry in the sun, village dogs meander about, and the sound of chanting drifts in on the evening breeze. To introduce visitors to his world, I Nyoman Bagiarta set up the Puri Lumbung Cottages in a garden bursting with guava, lime, papaya, pineapple, and other tropical fruits. In 12 of the 17 cottages, the top floor was converted from an old lumbung--a rice granary of wood and bamboo, with a thatched roof (Bagiarta has substituted shingles). Inside, there's room for a bed, and not much more. But there's also a balcony, and a bathroom on the lower floor, so the cottages don't feel cramped. The hotel doesn't have a pool, but there's plenty to do, including trekking, participating in music and dance classes, and taking part in a reforestation project. In the evening, you can dine in the hotel's restaurant, which serves good food, including timbungan be siap (a chicken soup with cassava leaves and shallots), and offers great views of the surrounding hills. Bagiarta, though, wants to do more than just host visitors. He believes his hotel can also help his community by bringing in jobs and acting as a template for other hotels owned and run by Balinese. He's succeeded: Already the hotel has inspired a number of locals to open their own homestays. "If people copy, OK," he says with a smile. 011-62/362-92-810, purilumbung.com, from $75.

LOVINA

Rumah Cantik
In northern Bali, Lovina is a miniature version of the hugely popular resort towns that lie along the island's south coast. So it might seem surprising that just 300 yards or so from the area's main drag is a place of peace and quiet. The Rumah Cantik--a homestay with four rooms in a flower-filled garden--was built by Made Kantra and Jette Stampe, a Balinese-Danish couple, and its eclectic design reflects its owners' diverse backgrounds. On the outside of the two pavilions housing the guest rooms, European-style pillars support a Balinese roof with upturned eaves. Inside, the mix of influences continues in the generous guest rooms: The beds are done up with romantic canopies, while the other furniture has a hint of Japanese simplicity. The large bathrooms have floors and walls made of layers of gray stones. In the garden, the feel is Balinese, with a large bale, or open-sided living room, surrounded by a small fish pond. On sunny afternoons, reflections from the water dance on the bale's ceiling. There isn't a lot to do: no pool, no TV, and--apart from breakfast and light snacks--no restaurant. Then again, nothing may be exactly what you crave. The homestay can be a little hard to find; if you tend to have difficulty navigating, Kantra and Stampe will meet you on the main road. 011-62/362-42-159, lovinacantik.com, from $65.

AMED

Blue Moon Villas
Though it's long been popular with divers and snorkelers, Bali's remote northeast coast is still off the beaten track for most visitors. That may change if more hotels follow the example of Blue Moon Villas, a stylish boutique hotel that makes the most of its dramatic coastal setting. Designed by local architect Pak Jaya, it has five rooms in three bright, airy villas, as well as an open-sided lobby/restaurant and a small infinity pool. The rooms all have balconies or terraces, some of which are large enough to double as living rooms. As in many Balinese hotels, the bathrooms are partly open to the outside but completely private. The staff is friendly but less deferential than in the main Balinese resorts--which could be because many of the staff members are related to the hotel's co-owner, Komang John, an engaging local guy who also gave his name to the hotel's restaurant (his brother is one of the chefs). After a dinner of fresh wahoo barbecued over coconut husks, you'll want to sit on your balcony and watch the fishing boats fan out into the ocean. In the morning, if the local roosters wake you in time, you can go out in a fishing boat to watch the sun rise. 011-62/812-362-2597, bluemoonvillas.com, from $60.

SIDEMEN

Nirarta Centre for Living Awareness
One of the things that first attracted Western visitors to Bali at the beginning of the 20th century was its rich spiritual tradition, which draws on elements of Hinduism, Buddhism, and animism. These days, most visitors pursue physical pleasures, but anyone interested in exploring the inner self might like the Nirarta Centre. Founded by British psychologist Peter Wrycza and his Balinese wife, Dayu Mayuni, the hotel has nine rooms total in five cottages, some of which have two stories. Built of wood and stone with grass or shingle roofs, the spacious cottages--two are octagonal, from a traditional Hindu symbol--are simple but comfortable and offer pretty views of the valley below. The center sits amid rice terraces and has its own extensive vegetable gardens, which supply most of the largely vegetarian food served there in a separate, open-sided restaurant. Nirarta offers a number of coaching and counseling courses. Guests are free to take part in two daily 45-minute meditation sessions in the large meditation hall, also octagonal. Close to the river there's a small massage center with just one massage table. The river itself is what the hotel cheekily calls its "natural Jacuzzi." 011-62/366-24-122, awareness-bali.com, from $30, additional fees for non-meditation courses.

Patal Kikian
In 1963, Ida Ayu Mas Andayani and her family fled their home when Mount Agung erupted. "Stones and rocks fell from the sky," says Andayani. The eruption was Agung's first in 120 years, and while the mountain has been quiet ever since, experts warn that it may erupt again. Andayani will cope with whatever nature throws at her; she's not a lady to be put off for long by a mere volcano. The descendant of an important local family, she has welcomed an impressive list of celebrities to her homestay: Indonesian presidents and international artists and musicians, including Mick Jagger and David Bowie. She began building the three well-spaced villas in 1979, although they look as if they've been around for centuries. The villas are red brick and gray stone, and covered in intricately carved panels depicting scenes from Hindu epics. Fanned by breezes, the villas' wide terraces make for cool and calm outdoor living rooms. Inside, the bathrooms are a bit too functional-looking, but the bedrooms are large and tastefully furnished with antiques and original paintings, many by Andayani's friends. Indeed, she's just the person to ask if you want to know more about the area's famously rich cultural heritage. 011-62/366-23-005, patalkikian@yahoo.com, from $45 (with breakfast) or $75 (three meals a day).

If you're traveling in a group . . . On Bali, villas--with their own pool and staff, where you and your friends are the only guests--get much more affordable outside high season (which runs from mid-July to mid-September and over Christmas/New Year's). You can also cut costs by booking last-minute, usually within 10 days of arrival, although such offers are hard to come by in high season. Most management companies insist on a minimum stay of two days in low season and five to ten days in high season; meals generally cost the price of groceries plus a service charge. Ask when booking if prices include taxes (10 percent) and service fees (5 to 11 percent). Some villas worth a look:

Villa Uma
Hidden behind a rice paddy 20 minutes outside Ubud, the two-bedroom Villa Uma has gorgeous valley views, tall windows, high ceilings, and well-chosen furniture. A reception room, a kitchen/dining room, a multitude of terraces and balconies, and a pool and deck all contribute to a sense of spaciousness. Elite Havens, 011-62/361-731-074, elitehavensbali.com, from $300 per night, sleeps two couples.

Sukhavati Retreat
The stunning estate in Bebengan has six villas, each with a bedroom and semi-enclosed bathroom, arranged on broad terraces linked by a dramatic staircase. Traditional Balinese and modern design are integrated in the villas and the other spaces, which include a spa, dining pavilion, and meditation bale. It's more like a hotel than a traditional villa; there's even a restaurant. 011-62/361-742-2928, sukhavatiretreat.com, from $1,200 per night, sleeps six couples (villas can be booked individually, starting from $150).

Villa Jembar Lawang
Jembar Lawang is a two-wing villa in Canggu built around a high-ceilinged, semicircular living room with huge windows. The look is modern but with lots of Balinese and Asian art, and there's a long pool and large garden. When they have outdoor barbecues, the staff lights the garden with candles. Bali Homes Management, 011-62/361-730-668, balihomes.com, from $480 per night, sleeps five couples.

Villa Bali Impian
Jimbaran Hill may not be in the most beautiful part of Bali, but the four-bedroom Impian has a nice relaxed air and is a five-minute drive from the beach. There's a large living room, a bar area with a pool table, and an infinity pool that, following some recent construction in the neighboring lot, no longer sees to infinity. 011-62/361-703-060, balivillas.com, from $650 per night, sleeps three couples and two singles.

Spa Villa Barong
Also located in Jimbaran Hill, Spa Villa Barong was built in a modern manner with plain but attractive dark wood furniture. The living and dining areas are open-sided, and the pool is a good size. The villa offers two free hours of spa treatments a day. 011-62/361-703-060, balivillas.com, from $420 per night, sleeps three couples.

Eco-Friendly Travel

2006-10-29T11:10:00.000-08:00

Sarah, when are we going to your parents' house in Belize?

BELIZE: Monitor Coral Reefs
What: Examine a swath of the largest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere for signs of stress (often resulting from development). Collect data about water quality, coral reef inhabitants, and indicators of reef health; swim in delineated areas to record specific fish types; participate in evening research presentations.
Where: Blackbird Caye, Belize
Cost: $1,500
Dates: Jul. 15 - 22, Aug. 26 - Sept. 2, Oct. 28 - Nov. 4, Nov. 11 - 18, Dec. 9 -16, 2006
Accommodations: Beach cabanas with double occupancy and private bathrooms
Details: Expeditions limited to eight people. Only snorkeling and swimming skills are needed; training will be provided for other activities.
Contact: Oceanic Society, 800/326-7491, oceanic-society.org

BORNEO: Protect Orangutans
What: Strenuous construction work with a conservation aim: Clear paths, build posts to hinder logging and relief sites for rehabilitated orangutans. Participants visit rehabilitation centers for injured orangutans and those rescued from the pet trade and see some in the wild, but don't work directly with the animals.
Where: Tanjung Puting National Park, Indonesian Borneo
Cost: $959
Dates: Jun. 17 - Jul. 29; Aug. 5 - Sept. 16; Sept. 23 - Nov. 4, 2006; Apr. - Nov 2007
Accommodations: Very primitive lodgings without electricity or bathrooms at the work site
Details: To participate, you must become a member of the London-based Orangutan Foundation International (£20/$35 for a year-long membership), submit a cover letter, resume, passport photo, and a brief one-page application form. There will likely be a phone interview (the majority of applicants are accepted). Each team has 12 people and two volunteer coordinators. Food and work materials are included.
Contact: Orangutan Foundation International, orangutan.org, +44/20-7724-2912

COSTA RICA: Save the Sea Turtles
What: Comb the beach for turtle eggs, go on night patrols to measure the temperatures of nests and observe turtles, observe hatchlings, and excavate nests to determine why certain eggs never hatched.
Where: Punta Banco or San Miguel, Costa Rica
Cost: $310 for one week; $530 for two weeks; $1,730 for eight weeks; $200 for additional weeks
Dates: Jul. 15 - Dec. 15, 2006
Accommodations: A choice of either a home stay or no-frills cabin; in Punta Banco there's the option to upgrade to a room at the (comparatively) luxurious Tiskita Lodge, also in the rainforest, for an extra $160 for one week
Details: Groups limited to 12 people; two onsite coordinators. July and August attract the greatest number of participants, but the best time to go is September or October during the peak of adult turtle nesting, or in November and December when the eggs hatch. Night patrols are conducted in groups of three-to-four people. Both San Miguel and Punta Banco are on the Pacific Coast. The former is a mangrove swamp area and estuary with a bit more turtle action; the latter is more of a rainforest environment with a stationhouse located in the heart of the community.
Contact: Programa Restauracion de Tortugas Marinas, +506/241-5227, tortugamarina.org

CZECH REPUBLIC: Purify Streams
What: Help recovering streams and forests badly damaged by acid rain from coal-fired power plants. Collect water samples and measure pH levels, temperatures and oxygen readings from streams and reservoirs; catch and examine reintroduced fish; assess tree vitality and collect soil and vegetation samples; test samples in the lab.
Where: Jizera Mountains, northern Bohemia, Czech Republic
Cost: $2,295
Dates: Jun. 3 - 17, Jun. 24 - Jul. 8, Jul. 15 - 29, 2006
Accommodations: A 200-year old farmhouse with a sauna and double rooms (two twin beds) in the village of Bedrichov village. The pension doubles as a field lab and briefing center. The first and final nights are spent in a hostel in Prague.
Details: All meals are included: breakfast at the pension, lunch in the field, and dinner at local restaurants. An optional one-year membership costs $35 and grants a $100 discount off any of Earthwatch's expeditions for that year. Trips are tax deductible.
Contact: Earthwatch, 800/776-0188, earthwatch.org

ECUADOR: Witness Globalization in Action
What: Take a hard, up-close look at the effects of globalization. Hike through a protected lowland cloud forest and stop at coffee cooperatives to learn about the fair trade movement and resistance to mining companies. Meet with indigenous leaders and healers in the Amazon, and visit local ecotourism projects. Visit Cotacachi, a township committed to sustainability and communal governance, and Andean communities working towards self-sustainability. Find out about the continuing court-battle against Chevron and their oil exploitation, and visit the oil pits. Discuss environmental, social, and economic rights with activists and leaders in Quito.
Where: Ecuador
Cost: $1,400
Dates: Jul. 14 - Jul. 27, 2006
Accommodations: Double occupancy hotel rooms
Details: Two meals (breakfast and dinner) daily, transportation within Ecuador, guides, translators and reading materials are all included.
Contact: Global Exchange, 800/497-1994, globalexchange.org

IDAHO: Repair Forest Trails
What: Trail maintenance work to restore areas burnt by forest fires. Clear burned down trees; shore up existing trails by placing structures along their edges.
Where: Salmon Challis National Forest, Idaho
Cost: $130
Dates: Jun. 25 - Jul. 2, 2006
Accommodations: Primitive tent site
Details: The $130 rate includes a one-year Society membership (for those who are already members, the trip cost is $100). All meals are included. Participants must supply their own tents, sleeping bags, pads, and all personal gear including eating utensils. The group is limited to 12 people, and the trip is classified as "moderate to difficult."
Contact: American Hiking Society, 800/972-8608, americanhiking.org

MAINE: Spot Rare Birds
What: Early morning bird walks on the lookout for bald eagles, terns, osprey, northern gannets, warblers with their fall colors, and guillemots; boat trips to other islands such as Eastern Egg Rock, home to the southernmost colony of Atlantic puffins, and Wreck Island, known for its great blue herons; lectures and slide presentations by guest speakers.
Where: Hog Island, Maine
Cost: $985
Dates: Sept. 10 - 16, 2006
Accommodations: Wood-frame cabins with double occupancy rooms (choice of king or two twin beds)
Details: The rate includes meals, lodgings, boat transportation to/from Hog Island, and all activities. The group is limited to 30 people with guest lecturers and six instructors.
Contact: Audubon Camp, 207/781-2330, maineaudubon.org

PUERTO RICO: Save the Rainforests
What: Hike through the mountains of an ancient tropical rainforest to measure and record the progress of mahogany and mahoe trees; monitor the impact of recently planted sites on the coqui (tiny tree frogs); participate in a new method of harvesting trees by cutting long slots through the forest and planting seedlings in the lines.
Where: Las Casas de la Selva, Patillas, Puerto Rico
Cost: $1,095
Dates: Jun. 8 - 17, Dec. 14 - 23, Dec. 28, 2006 - Jan. 6, 2007
Accommodations: Platform tents with air mattresses; some have electricity, but power outages are common. The nearby main house has hot and cold running water, toilets, and showers.
Details: Meals are included. An optional one-year membership costs $35 and grants a $100 discount off any of Earthwatch's expeditions for that year. Trips are tax deductible.
Contact: Earthwatch, 800/776-0188, earthwatch.org

THAILAND: Promote Ecotourism in National Parks
What: Teach English to staff at visitors' center; create English brochures and visitor information as well as materials highlighting the importance of protecting wildlife/environment for local schools and residents; improve national park databases; survey elephants, tigers, turtles, crocodiles, and other wildlife.
Where: Various locations in Thailand: Koh Chang Marine National Park on an untouched island near Cambodia with waterfalls and dense tropical forests; Kui Buri, a park on the border of Myanmar with wild elephants, gaurs, tapirs, and tigers; Bang Sida, a park between Bangkok and the Cambodian border with a project focused on saving the Siamese crocodiles; and Phu Wua Wildlife Reserve in the northeast near the Mekong River, where there are elephant treks and home stays for participants and tourists alike.
Cost: $470 for two weeks; $595 for three weeks; $710 for four weeks; $885 for five weeks
Dates: Program is offered twice every month, beginning on the first and third weekends
Accommodations: Park cabins with electricity and private bathrooms; at the Phu Wua Reserve and other select locations there's the option to stay in the home of a Thai family. Knowledge of English and living conditions vary (western-style bathrooms and bedrooms or more modest homes of rice farmers with mattresses on the floor in lieu of beds).
Details: The trip includes a three-day orientation in Nongkai, Thailand, lodging, and all meals.
Contact: Open Mind Projects, + 66/42 413 578, openmindprojects.org

budgettravelonline.com

There is NO Excuse Not To Travel

2006-10-29T11:08:00.000-08:00

FREE TRAVEL

House-sitting
Caretaker.org Subscribe to the Caretaker Gazette; find caretaker and house-sitting opportunities
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Volunteerinternational.org Find international volunteer work

The Religious Retreat Vacation

2006-10-29T11:04:00.000-08:00

I want to go to a meditation retreat and do yoga for a weekend...I think it would do everyone some good to get away and just think....

More than 2,000 monasteries, abbeys, and spiritual retreat centers are scattered throughout the United States and Canada. About 80 percent are linked to a religious order. But most take a more ecumenical, interfaith approach to accommodate this increased interest. "In the old days if you were a Catholic retreat center, you advertised yourself that way. Now most of them want everybody to come," Stone says. Many places offer yoga, Buddhist thought, prayers of all sorts. The accommodations range from a bare-bones "hotel" room (religious imagery displacing third-rate landscapes on the walls) to spartan monks' quarters. Nearly all are clean, well-lighted places, going for anywhere from $25 to $100 per night (often presented only as a suggested donation). The charge usually includes three meals a day and a shared bathroom. At the end of your stay you may be asked to strip the bed and perhaps even put on fresh sheets for the next seeker.

Christian Retreats

Send $30 to Retreats International, P.O. Box 1067, Notre Dame, IN 46556 (phone 574/247-4443, e-mail retreats@nd.edu), for the most recent edition of its extensive "Directory of Retreat Centers," which lists several hundred such locations, of which the great majority are Catholic retreats, others Protestant, all set forth state-by-state in pared-down fashion: addresses and phone numbers, name of director, months of operation, number of rooms, heavily abbreviated references to basic approaches and programs. To determine which centers best meet your needs, view the website retreatsintl.org/.

For a list of Protestant retreat houses (totaling about 150 in North America), contact the North American Retreat Directors Association (NARDA). While it offers simply a mailing list, not a directory with descriptions, it furnishes copies for free (after which you can phone the individual properties for more details). Despite that kind offer, it would be a nice gesture to enclose $2 for postage and handling. Many of the retreat houses on the mailing list can also be accessed at the Website: nardacenters.org/.

Upward of a hundred retreat houses have from 50 to 100 or more rooms apiece, while the remainder average 20 to 40 rooms. At the smaller houses, you obviously can't expect a complete activities program. Rather, in the monastic tradition of some (especially Catholic) retreats, the experience is largely a personal one, and guests take advantage of the stress-free atmosphere and freedom from business and family pressures to ponder the eternal verities. For people of all religions, and of none, it is a refreshing interlude that places more petty concerns into perspective.

The larger retreats have elaborate programs, often on major religious, social, or political issues. Probably the most extensive program (35 separate instructors, including widely known theologians, therapists, and authors) is the month-long summer institute conducted every July on the campus of Notre Dame University by the before-mentioned Retreats International. Here, in the casual setting of summertime, nearly 400 people (teachers, counselors, clergy, nurses, social workers, and other concerned adults) are in attendance each week (and one week is all you need stay), auditing courses and seminars in spiritual and other church-related issues, but also dealing with family and youth problems, intimate relationships, morality and self-healing, community needs. Courses average $300 to $400/week for housing and instruction. Meals and registration fees are extra. Write for literature to the address given earlier, or view the website retreatsintl.org/, or call 574/277-4443.

Genesis Spiritual Life Center, in the Berkshire Mountains of western Massachusetts, is a far less typical example of the large retreat center, in that it is purposefully ecumenical in nature, appealing to people of all religious beliefs, even though it is administered by the Sisters of Providence, a Catholic order. "We believe," says their credo, "that when persons of differing lifestyles and spiritualities connect, God's creative and healing energies are released...We give preference to those who often feel alienated from their church or society." Heavily influenced by theories of the "New Age," the center's weeklong theme retreats include courses ranging from "Meditation Techniques" to "Celtic Spirituality" to "Watercolor Painting" to "A Jungian Look at the Christian Message," as taught by an equally ecumenical faculty that at times has included Lutherans, followers of Joseph Campbell, massage therapists and psychoanalysts. Programs are offered throughout the year (a $250 to $345 fee covers room, board and program fees for a week), as are "private retreats". All this in a peaceful wooded setting dotted with flower and vegetable gardens, an old restored carriage house dating back to 1889, a chapel, a library, and two dining rooms. For their fascinating literature, contact Genesis Spiritual Life Center, 53 Mill Street, Westfield, MA 01085 (phone 413/562-3627, e-mail genesis@genesiscenter.us). See its Website at: westfield-ma.comgenesis/.

On the West Coast, but much smaller and radically different in atmosphere, is the highly regarded, Anglican-run Mount Calvary Retreat House near Santa Barbara, California, overlooking the Pacific from a high vantage point. In the quiet atmosphere of this Protestant monastic community, in a large Spanish home with a well-stocked library, individuals enjoy the essence of the retreat experience for a suggested daily donation of $70 for room and board each night of stay. A deposit of $50 is required to reserve a room. Write or phone Mount Calvary Retreat House, P.O. Box 1296, Santa Barbara, CA 93102 (phone 805/962-9855, ext. 10). Visit its Web site at mount-calvary.org/.

Catholic

Our Lady of Florida Spiritual Center (passionist order), North Palm Beach, FL at the front door is Route 1, an American Main Street leading from Key West to the northern tip of Maine. But as you walk along the quarter mile of waterfront at the back of this retreat just eight miles north of Palm Beach, where shimmering Lake Worth empties into the Atlantic Ocean, there's no sound except for the water lapping and the distant clanging of the rigging of million-dollar sailboats moored next door.

Here, in the spirit of "active contemplation" dating back to the order's founding in 1720, a tiny band of Passionist priests opens their beautiful home (an architectural-award-winning building) to individual and group retreatants. "Each weekend we have programs, sometimes married couple retreats, mixtures of lectures, prayer, and private conferences," says Father Damian Towey, who has been here for ten years. "The first year I felt awkward. I wondered if I was giving them anything valuable. But so many people say at the end that it was more than a vacation and that it felt like it was over too soon."

Individual retreatants are welcome midweek as well, even when there are no programs scheduled. You can attend mass (as many in the community do), held every morning in the gorgeous adjoining chapel with the sun streaming through 116 rectangles of stained-glass windows. You sleep in single rooms with a single bed, bare walls, a window facing the water, and a terrace that allows you to step out and watch the sun rise on the water (highly recommended).

"Remember that George Carlin routine about stuff? How we work all our lives to acquire stuff, then we find out in the end it's just stuff?" laughs John Kosak, administrator of the center. "Here's where we get rid of that stuff that's a hindrance to any spiritual awakening."

Our Lady of Florida Spiritual Center, 1300 U.S. Highway 1, North Palm Beach, FL 33408; 561/626-1300, ourladyofflorida.org/. Costs: Weekend: Suggested donation $160 for a weekend, three meals a day.

"We offer a sense of quiet in the midst of an urban scene," says Peter Irmiter, marketing director of the Jesuit Retreat House on 57 acres just south of Cleveland, OH. Silence is big here and begins with breakfast, carrying through all meals. "Silence is key to all retreats," says Imiter.

There's a hands-on approach here. If you're on an individually directed retreat, you are assigned a retreat director with whom you'll confer once or twice a day to read scripture and talk about any new thoughts that have occurred to you during the day.

The Jesuits here have been handling retreats for 102 years, but they're making changes to their approach all the time to handle this new growing interest. "Retreats used to be geared to 30 days," says Imiter. Now, he says, "Weekends are our bread and butter - men's, women's, mixed retreats, for AA, young people preparing for marriage, covering everything from finance to sex."

And they adapt retreats to individual needs and preferences. "We know older people are more used to pre-Vatican II where they get preached to. They're not into sharing, too shy," Imiter explains. "The baby boomers, they're looking for an interactive, sharing retreat with more give-and-take." And the younger folks, 25 to 40? "We're studying that market now," Imiter says.

Jesuit Retreat House, 5629 State Rd., Parma, OH 44134; 440/884-9300, jrh-cleveland.org/. Houses 58. Costs: Weekend: $160 includes all meals, private single room, shared bath.

Protestant (Presbyterian)

"The scenery alone is spiritual and healing," says Nancy Early, a film producer in New York who has taken her two children to New Mexico's Ghost Ranch Conference Center in Abiquiu for several years. Ghost Ranch's 21,000 acres, 6,500 feet above sea level, are surrounded by red clay hills and sheer cliffs. "You walk outside at night and you're under a blanket of stars...breathtaking. We get up early and go horseback riding and see the sun rise."

And the quality of the courses the adults take during the day matches the scenery, Early says. "I took courses on painting, watercolors, the five major religions of the world, journal writing, and photography. They attract superb people. Some of the courses fill up within weeks of the catalog's publication."

But most of all, she says, it is quiet and removed. "There's one pay phone--the cell doesn't work. No television, no radio. You walk away from everything that controls your life. And I never heard the kids say, 'I'm bored.'" There's a library, open 24 hours a day, a museum of anthropology, and another of paleontology. The stone labyrinth and the hiking trails are open all year long.

Guest rooms are simple cabins with bunk beds. And the dining is cafeteria-style in the main room (which can serve up to 300 people), using the ranch's own organic produce.

Ghost Ranch, H77, Box 11, Abiquiu, NM 87510; 505/685-4333, ghostranch.org/. Cost: $300-$420 weekly, including three meals, tuition $185; Children under 14, half-price; under age 4, free. Summer visitors must be enrolled in courses.

Christian-Evangelical

After driving two hours north of Phoenix (speed limit, 75; it's the west, after all), you wind up at a series of simple brown buildings that blend into the dusty desert surroundings. It isn't until you walk the 22 acres that you notice there's a large pond on the Living Water Worship and Teaching Center in Cornville, AZ, fed by an artesian well, stocked with fish (catch-and-release is the rule here), and good for swimming in summer. And that gentle rushing noise you hear at the property's edge is not the wind, it's Oak Creek, a swiftly moving stream that flows into the Verde River.

Belinda Schmitt says her parents, John and Barry French, searched for years before finding water in the desert and opening this Christian retreat in 1981. "People tell me they feel the Lord walking here with them," she says.

Living Water offers no organized lectures or religious services. Church groups (of 20-120) bring their own preachers and programs. Individual retreatants are on their own, though they are given a thick handbook called Spiritual Journeys, which offers suggestions on how to proceed reflectively, a spiral notebook to begin a journal of their thoughts, and access to a library of inspirational books.

"We're nondenominational, so we don't push anything--that appeals to a lot of people who don't want you to be too Catholic or too Baptist," says Lee Brownson, who vacationed at the retreat for years before becoming marketing director. But he does concede that they quietly discourage non-Christian seekers. "The focus is on Jesus," Brownson explains.

And the stress is on comfort. The rooms for those on personal retreats (set off from the dormlike group facilities) are much like good motel accommodations: double bed, private bathroom, balcony from which you can see the stars in the big western sky. The food is home-cooked and plentiful, with a dessert at every meal. No busing your own dishes here. After all, as Brownson says, "You don't have to be uncomfortable to hear from the Lord."

Two weeks before you arrive, the entire staff will start praying for the success of your retreat. (That is, if you book more than two weeks in advance - they're faithful, not psychic.) If you need a small assist toward inspiration, the Grand Canyon is 21/2 hours away. Or you can drive 20 minutes up the road to Sedona to catch the sunset against the backdrop of those famous craggy red-rock cliff formations.

The Community of Living Water, 6702 E. Clinton St., Scottsdale, AZ 85254; 888/627-5631, sierranet.net/living. Costs: Individuals pay $65 per night for a private room and bath, three meals; Couples pay $110 per night, six meals; Groups are $84-$106 for weekends (includes meeting rooms and audiovisual equipment, plus meals).

Quakers (The Religious Society of Friends)

Quaker retreat centers appear to be few and far between, but we have located two, one on each coast, which offer similar atmospheres suitable for retreats and quiet contemplation.

Pendle Hill, a "Quaker-led study center" near Philadelphia, was founded in 1930 by the Religious Society of Friends (Quakers) on a 23-acre arboretum in Wallingford, Pennsylvania. Although open to people of all faiths, the retreat center emphasizes its Quaker roots in its program offerings, which includes spirituality and art workshops, as well as discussions of political and social issues. Pendle Hill offers various conferences and retreats for $250-$630/person double, $295 to $680 single, which include room, board, and all program fees. Retreat topics range from "The Spirit in the Word," to "The Truth About Quaker History," to "The Status of Islamic Women in the Arab World," to "Experiencing Goodness in Ourselves." Lodging is also available for those individuals seeking time for private contemplation and solitude; bed and breakfast rates range from $70/night for singles and $100/night for couples. If you're looking for the opportunity for more intensive spiritual study, Pendle Hill offers an on-going resident study program consisting of three 10-week sessions from October to June. A library, community dining room, craft studio (summer only), and extensive wooded grounds are available to the private and program guests; families are welcomed, but the study center does not provide childcare. Write or phone Pendle Hill, 338 Plush Mill Road, Wallingford, PA 19086 (phone 800/742-3150, e-mail bobbi@pendlehill.org). The Web site at pendlehill.org/ provides extensive information on the study center and its programs, as well as allows you to register for conferences and retreats online.

The Ben Lomond Quaker Center in Central California (two hours south of San Francisco) offers another opportunity for spiritual discovery. Situated on 80 acres of Redwood forest, the center aims to provide a place of "retreat and contemplation, of renewal and growth, for individuals, families, Friends Meetings and other organizations or groups who unite with the Quaker principles of simplicity, justice, peace and respect for 'that of God' in every person" for over 30 years. The center offers an average of one weekend retreat per month, which run on a sliding scale of about $160 per person, including program fees and room and board from Friday to Sunday. Programs for 2001 include "Alternatives to Violence," "Discovering Our Purpose for Being," and "The Annual Silent Retreat." All meals are vegetarian and participants share set-up and clean-up responsibilities. Like Pendle Hill, this center also offers accommodations for "sojourners," or those in search of personal respite; rates range from $17-$50/person/night, but additional donations are welcome. During the summer, Ben Lomond holds weeklong Quaker camps for "young friends," ranging in age from 8th graders to college students. Write or phone Ben Lomond Quaker Center, P.O. Box 686, Ben Lomond, CA 95005 (phone 831/336-8333, e-mail mail@quakercenter.org). Its Web site at quakercenter.org/ provides a complete listing of program offerings, as well as rates and helpful features, such as "What to Expect" and "What to Bring."

Powell House Conference and Retreat Center, Old Chatham, NY Friends (a.k.a., Quakers) are no strangers to silence--it's an integral part of their meetings. So it is not surprising that this center, set on 57 acres with two ponds in rural upstate New York, adjacent to a bird sanctuary, encourages calm and quiet.

But what surprised Spee Braun when she, her husband, and their three children went there the first time was that people gathered regularly in the main hall to make music - something not allowed in the usual Quaker service. She liked that, and everything else about the place. "I'm a people-person. You meet new people there and you can have in-depth conversations that you can't get to over a cup of coffee at church," Braun says.

Braun says she even found walking the new stone labyrinth "a moving experience, though I started out a skeptic." The lectures are enlightening. Her favorite events are the bargain work-weekends. "You do a job on the main building, like re-roof or rake leaves or paint the walls, and the low rates are even cheaper," she says. "You feel peace at Powell House, away from the busyness of the world."

Powell House Conference and Retreat Center Under the care of New York Yearly Meeting of the Religious Society of Friends (Quakers), 524 Pitt Hall Rd., Old Chatham, NY 12136-3410; 518/794-8811, powellhouse.org/. Open year-round; three hours north of New York City, three hours west of Boston. Cost: Weekend: adults $170, includes two nights' lodging and six meals and all programming; $80 for kids under 18; $40 kids under 2. For individual retreatants (called "sojourners" here) who do not attend programs: $40 per night, includes self-serve breakfast. Reservations required.

Seventh Day Adventists

There's one thing at Camp Kulaqua in High Springs, FL you won't find at any other retreat center: the largest amateur zoo on the East Coast, with lions and tigers and bears (oh my) as well as cougars, monkeys, llamas, and coyotes. "Most of the animals have been confiscated from people who've abused them--we don't take them from the wild and put them behind bars," says Dave Speicher, camp manager.

Camp Kulaqua is one of the largest of the Seventh-Day Adventists' 99 worldwide retreat centers and camps (67 in North America). The 650-acre facility, 20 miles north of Gainesville, provides all kinds of housing year-round, a natural spring to swim in, horses for trail rides, tennis, a gym, and meeting facilities that can seat up to 1,200.

There are weekend programs (men's and women's retreats) for two to three months of the year; a singles' retreat over New Year's; four-day family camp with programs over Labor Day; and a seven-week summer camp for kids. But at other times, individual retreatants are on their own. No TV, no phones.

"The main attraction is the quiet and security," says Speicher. "What we try to do is provide an atmosphere where the Holy Spirit dwells and you can get away from the cares of the world."

Camp Kulaqua, 700 N.W. Cheeota Ave., High Springs, FL 32643; 386/454-1351, fax 386/454-4748, campkulaqua.com/. Located 20 miles north of Gainesville, 21/2 hours north of Orlando. Cost: Rooms for $28.50-$187 per night; meals run $6.95-$7.95.

Jewish

The Brandeis-Bardin Institute, 1101 Peppertree Lane, Brandeis, CA 93064 (phone 805/582-4450, fax 805/526-1398, e-mail info@thebbi.org, or online at brandeis-bardin.org/), has cottages amid rolling hills 45 minutes from Los Angeles, and offers a wide variety of themed programs (family camps, singles weekends, arts festivals) on religious practices in the tradition of non-denominational Judaism. Cost varies according to the program, but averages between $170-$375 per person.

Hadassah, the well-known Jewish women's organization, sponsors "Singles Retreat." Held across the country, the retreat is heavily patronized by persons seeking a mate of similar background and values, but has a strong religious and spiritual as well as social content, I am assured by Hadassah's national office. For the many dates, locations and prices, write or call Hadassah Membership Division, 50 West 58th Street, New York, NY 10019 (phone 800/664-5646, e-mail: memberinfo@hadassah.org), which operates these programs for the public at large, and does not require that participants be members of Hadassah. More traditional retreats ("Kallahs"), for members only, are offered on summer weekends at locations around the country, and are led by distinguished biblical scholars. Write to Hadassah's Jewish Education Department at the above address or view the Web site at hadassah.org/.

Jacobs Camp, in Mississippi, has periodic adult retreats each year, discussing Jewish issues in a countryside setting that now also contains an 8,000-square-foot Museum of the Southern Jewish Experience, operated by the Union of American Hebrew Congregations. Contact Jacobs Camp, P.O. Box 327, Utica, MS 39175 (phone 601 885-6042). See the organization's Web site at hsjacobscamp.org/.

Camp Olin-Sang-Ruby, in Oconomowoc, Wisconsin, hosts a variety of midweek and weekend retreats all year round-some for children, others for families or mature adults only--on themes such as: "Spirituality and the High Holidays" and "Jewish Literature and the Arts" as well as a "Jewish Writer's Workshop" and a "Songleading and Music Workshop." For non-program visits, the all-inclusive charge can be as low as $15 a day per person for lodgings and meals on a family camping trip, although most people visit with a large group. For information, write or phone Camp Olin-Sang-Ruby, winter address 555 Skokie Blvd., Suite 225, Northbrook, IL 60062 (phone 847/509-0990, ext. 25, fax 847/509-0970, e-mail osrui@urj.org); summer address: 600 Lac La Belle Drive, Oconomowoc, WI 53066 (phone 262/567-6277, fax 262/567-8885). Also online at http://osrui.urjcamps.org/.

Elat Chayyim

The Jewish Spiritual Retreat Center, 99 Mill Hook Rd., Accord, NY 12404 (two hours north of New York); 800/398-2630, elatchayyim.org/. Open year-round, but only during those weekends and weeks when programs are scheduled; accommodates 150. Costs: Weeklong programs in summer: Program fee $390-$485.Weekends: Program fee $150; rooms $125-$275 per weekend, includes three (vegetarian with fish option) meals a day.

A typical day starts with yoga and prayer sessions, then classes taught by some of the leaders in the Jewish Renewal movement (emphasizing the integration of mind, body, soul, and spirit). Services are often held outdoors in a tent, amidst spirited chanting and swaying. There's a park nearby with lush hiking and biking trails. The day ends with discussion of the retreat experience in smaller family (mispacha) groups, sometimes outside under the stars.

Muslim

Islamic retreats are harder to come by, but we've found one site that offers several programs for those interested in an intensive education in Islamic studies. Each year the Dar al Islam site in Abiquiu, New Mexico, hosts retreats, informational sessions, and conferences for Muslims. There is a youth camp for one week in June, and a women-only weekend retreat in September, but the big event is the Abiquiu Al-Rihla Summer Program. "Students" age 18 and over study jurisprudence, spiritual excellence, the Koran, and Arabic, among other subjects. Accommodations are bunk beds in yurts (large tents) for the men, and dormitory-style lodgings for the women. No provisions are made for married couples, so they would have to sleep separately or arrange their own accommodations outside the complex. For general information about the Dar al Islam site in New Mexico, go to daralislam.org/, call 505/685-4515, or write to P.O. Box 180, Abiquiu, NM 85710.

Hindu

The Shree Muktananda Ashram located in South Fallsburg, NY, calls itself a "spiritual University." The focus is on ancient Hindu teachings, although serious seekers of all faiths are welcome. The Ashram was founded in 1979 by Swami Muktananda, and is a modern representation of the traditional gurukula, the school of the Guru described in ancient Hindu texts, where students gather around a spiritual master to learn both scripture and the way to lead a life of righteousness (dharma). Students participate in a full daily schedule of meditation, chanting, contemplation, scriptural study and selfless service (which could include anything from chopping vegetables in the kitchen, to caring for the Ashram grounds). Classes cost between $150 and $475, and room and board cost from $57/night for dorms, $90 for twin accommodations, and $95/night for singles. Shree Muktananda is affiliated with the Gurudev Siddha Path Ashram in India, which was founded by Swami Muktananda in 1956. For information on either center, contact SYDA Foundation, Information Center, 371 Brickman Road, PO Box 600, South Fallsburg, NY 12779-0600 (phone 845/434 2000 ext. 2450) or view its Web site at siddhayoga.org/.

For a more varied, camp-style, but still thoroughly spiritual approach to Hinduism, Arsha Vidya Gurukulam (AVG) in Saylorsburg, PA offers something for people of all ages. Located on 15 wooded acres in the foothills of the Pocono Mountains, AVC can provide for up to 200 students at once in a complex of 15 cottages, five residential complexes and nine "family residences." AVG's comprehensive brochure regularly lists more than a dozen programs for summer and fall (three of which are family retreats), as well as regular retreats on the first and third weekend of every month, focused on a variety of studies including the Upanishads, Bhagavatgita, Bramasutras and other classical Vedic texts as well as such topics as Vedic Astrology, Ayurveda, Meditation and Yoga. For more information, contact AVG, P.O. Box 1059, Saylorsburg PA 18353 (phone 570/992-2339, e-mail info@arshavidya.org). Also online at arshavidya.org/.

Buddhist Retreats

Tassajara Zen Mountain Center, Carmel Valley, California

It's a good thing that Tassajara turns out to be one of the most beautiful and luxurious of retreats, because it is not exactly easy to get to. After driving about four hours south of San Francisco, climbing 5,000 feet in the Santa Lucia Range, and then clambering into the Tassajara's four-wheel drive "stagecoach" for the last 14 miles (one hour), half of which is straight downhill (they advise first-time visitors not to try this in their own automatic-shift vehicles lest they burn out the brakes completely), you arrive at the ancient geological wonder that is the Tassajara Creek Basin.

Everywhere you go, from the pool past the dorms and cabins and yurts to the bathhouse, you'll hear the peaceful burble of the creek. From May to Labor Day, there's an eclectic mix of Buddhist teachings ("Wild Mind, Zen Mind," for example) along with yoga, wilderness walks, and a little silence. Here, however, you can just come and not do any of the formal training at all.

"A lot of people are so stressed out they just come and sleep for the first day-and soak in the mineral hot springs," says Leslie James, Tassajara treasurer. "The place itself has a powerful spirit; it was where Indians came for healing before it became a resort." "We've been coming here since before I was born," says 14-year-old Kailyn McCord, sounding like a precocious Zen master (what's the sound of one hand clapping?) until her mother, Margaret, sitting at the dinner table across from her, adds context. "I've been coming since I was pregnant with Kailyn, and the family has been coming ever since." Though there are some wonderful hiking trails, up the mountains and alongside the powerful stream, there isn't much to appeal to most teenagers. Kailyn agrees, but still wouldn't miss coming every year. "I'm normally hyper and rambunctious," Kailyn explains. "This place opens up a quieter side of me that's wonderful and," she adds, taking a bite and beaming, "I come for the food."

And so do many others. The meals are truly vegetarian gourmet quality-as beautiful to look at as to eat. Not surprisingly, as Tassajara is part of a group that includes Green Gulch, an organic farm and practice center, and The Greens, an haute gourmet vegetarian restaurant on San Francisco Bay (as well as at the San Francisco Zen Center in the city). Forget your cell phone-it just won't work. And there is only one pay phone for all of the 70-80 residents. No TV, no pressure, not even electricity in the residences. It's stunning to walk at night with kerosene lanterns the only light along the paths and in the rooms, like reading by the glow of a jarful of dedicated fireflies. Now doesn't that sound like Nirvana? Tassajara Zen Mountain Center, 39171 Tassajara Road, Carmel Valley, CA 93924 415/865-1899 sfzc.org/. Dorms: $84-$99 per person per night, including all meals. Otherwise, two people per room, private stone rooms, pine rooms, yurts, and tatami Japanese mountain cabins can run up to $291 per night, again including three meals, pool, hot spring baths, all facilities. Tuition for weeklong courses: $150-$300. Open May-August to public.

Spirit Rock Meditation Center, Woodacre, California

The low wooden buildings melt unobtrusively into the hills of the 400-acre nature preserve that forms the backdrop for this year-round retreat center less than an hour north of San Francisco. The meditation hall, where you spend most of your time, has walls of windows looking out on the hills and mountains. During the evening dharma talk (the teacher's lecture on an aspect of Buddhist philosophy), you can see deer prance by on the top of the hill. Vipassana, or insight, meditation (the practice of mindful awareness) informs all the retreats, which run from four days to several months. They are all completely silent.

Though everyone has the luxury of a private room, each with a tiny modern sink, blond-wood bedside table, and a good single bed, it's a nofrills kind of place. There is time for little else besides the full daily schedule of sitting and walking meditation, movement class, meetings with your teacher, and dharma talks. The food is adequate, not gourmet, vegetarian. You are expected to do mindful cleaning and kitchen chores as well as clean your room, strip your bed, and wash the sink in your room before you go. And there are only a few hiking trails-though you shouldn't miss the one behind the meditation hall. It passes by a quite touching memorial place with bones and beads and Buddhas and photos of beloved friends and children who all passed along before those left behind were ready to let them go. One photo of a lone fireman atop the World Trade Center debris includes the names of three people, with the wish that by placing their memory "in this peaceful place" they will find peace from "the terror that surely must have filled the final moments of their lives."

No frills-no matter. What you come here for is the high-quality teachers who seem to have as much wit as wisdom, along with the ability to translate Buddhist teachings (archaically referred to at more traditional Zen retreats as "the Buddha-way") into language that resonates meaningfully for an American audience. Spirit Rock was founded by Jack Kornfield and Sylvia Boorstein, among others, who are two of the best teachers and most prolific and funny authors writing on Buddhism. (They also helped found The Insight Meditation Society in Barre, Massachusetts.) Spirit Rock also offers many one-day workshops as well, with some of the biggest names in spirituality in the United States. To be surrounded on all sides by sloping hillsides and mountains makes you feel, as you walk from the dorm to the meditation hall, as if you are being gently cradled in the hollow of the earth's hand. It is oddly quieting and reassuring. Rooms and three meals a day run $55-$75 per night (on a sliding scale based on your ability to pay). It is also expected that you will make a donation to the teachers at the end of the retreat, as they are otherwise unpaid. Spirit Rock Meditation Center, P.O. Box 169, Woodacre, CA 94973 415/488-0164 spiritrock.org/

Zen Mountain Monastery, Mount Tremper, New York

Is that a statue of Jesus on the outside of the beautiful, four-story stone-and-wood building that houses Zen Mountain Monastery? Is this a Zen paradox? As with most things Buddhist, the answer turns out to be simpler than one first supposes. This building in the foothills of the Catskill Mountains, bordered by two of New York's loveliest waterways, the Beaverkill and Esopus Rivers (about 100 miles north of New York City and 60 miles south of Albany), was once owned by the Catholic Church and has been appropriated (or is that recycled?) by the Buddhists. Inside the building, the Zen practice has not undergone much change from its origins.

"On the landscape of American Buddhism, we carry the conservative' label: rigorous, intense, disciplined, structured are some adjectives that may come up," says one of the teachers, Ryushin, with a smile that often pops up on his face and on those of the other monks and teachers. But people are coming here in droves. The Introduction to Zen retreat, offered the first weekend of every month for 22 years, never used to be full. "Now we're completely full and booked months in advance," says Ryushin. What brings them here? "People come in for a variety of reasons-often they are in pain, someone close has suffered or died," Ryushin explains. "I think lately the shit has hit the fan and people see they can no longer look to someone else to solve what is not right in the world, in their lives. The intimacy of the suffering of the world is more palpable and inescapable," continues Ryushin. "That's where Buddhism begins-when we come to grips with the reality of suffering and our role in it and in putting it to rest."

The Introduction to Zen retreat begins with patient and occasionally humorous instruction on zazen, sitting meditation, from the proper posture to how to tame your Monkey Mind, which will inevitably leap from thought to thought instead of letting you focus on "the still and clear mind." The daily schedule begins with a drum at 5:15 a.m. and includes alternating sitting meditation with walking meditation (carried out at a speedy clip, like a quiet conga line weaving around the zendo), along with an hour of light work in the kitchen or in the gardens on the 230 acres of nature preserve-in mindful silence. In addition you'll sit (quietly and respectfully) for one or more instructional talks from a teacher. There is also the opportunity for a private interview with a head monk to pose any question, personal or philosophical in your little Monkey Mind. Many say they experience in those few minutes with the master the most unusual intensity of focused attention and heartfelt compassion they have ever felt emanating from another person or not all depends on the karma. About $50 per night; four-day retreats: $350; weekend retreats: $195; includes dorm room, three meals a day, tuition. A month of residential training costs $650. Zen Mountain Monastery, P.O. Box 197, Mount Tremper, NY 12457 845/688-2228, mro.org/.

Wood Valley Temple and Retreat Center, Wood Valley, Ka'u, on the Big Island of Hawaii

This is one of the best-kept local secrets. You would never happen upon it because it's tucked away in a lush, green valley, far from the normal tourist path-but still within driving distance of Hilo and Volcanoes National Park, which are two attractions on the Big Island. This tiny Tibetan (the more relaxed branch of Buddhism) center, established in 1977 by the Venerable Nechung Rinpoche, was visited by the Dalai Lama twice: He dedicated the center in 1980 and visited again in 1994, drawing a crowd of several thousand to a facility that can only sleep 25.

Throughout the year, you'll find some formal retreats with guidance from teachers and lamas; the center is also open to groups for any spiritual, social, cultural, or health activities. Private individuals can stay at any time of year and simply join in with the two resident monks during morning and evening prayers and chanting or just kick back (easygoing Buddhism practiced here).

"We've preserved the original main shrine, built in 1902, which was the first Nichiren Shu Buddhist temple in Hawaii to service the Japanese immigrants who worked on the sugar plantations," explains Marya Schwabe, codirector. "But we've added modern Tibetan colors, the bright Crayola colors, which are beautiful." If you feel you must leave the compound, ten minutes away you'll find a black-sand beach where the green sea turtles come in to rest and feed. For groups of over 15, directors Marya and Michael Schwabe will cook your meals; otherwise you are free to use their big modern kitchen. "It's very heavenly," says Ione ("I don't use a last name"), a psychotherapist and author in New York City and Kingston, New York, who has just come back. "We sit on the veranda of our second-floor room [furnished in modern, simple Hawaiian style, with single or double beds] looking out on the most luscious flowers [red ginger, bird of paradise, spider lilies, and cup of gold flowering vines thrive there] and palms, listening to the sound of the peacocks on the grounds. You can go down and pick an avocado from the trees for your lunch. They raise coffee there, picked by the monks, which is fantastic at breakfast," Ione says, her voice softening at the memory. "I've traveled a lot in the world," Ione says, "and this is one of those places with a special feeling, a great feeling of peacefulness, beauty, and simplicity that calls you to return."

When there's no formal retreat, rooms are $75, not including meals; $50 for a single person, $35 in a dorm. When there's a formal retreat, $75-$125 per night includes three meals, tuition, and taxes. (Discounts for groups of 15 or more.) Wood Valley Temple and Retreat Center (a.k.a. Nechung Dorje Drayang Ling, which means small, immutable island of melodious sound), P.O. Box 250, Pahala, HI 96777 808/928-8539 nechung.org/.

Cloud Mountain Retreat Center, Castle Rock, Washington

In the midst of a lush, brilliant-green rain forest (60 miles north of Portland and 125 miles south of Seattle), you'll find a small lake, a gas-fired sauna, an organic garden and greenhouse, a fish pond, loads of wildlife (birds, black-tail deer, fish, raccoons), and a very intimate retreat center. "Our point of view is that bigger is not necessarily better," says Laura Hauer, Cloud Mountain's business director. "Other centers are growing, but we are keeping our maximum retreat group size at about 45."

Retreats, ranging from one day to a month or more, are almost all held in silence. Those attending are expected to follow the retreat schedule of sitting and walking meditation and attend the sessions of yoga and movement and discourses by the teacher. The two meditation halls and the eating and sleeping quarters (simple bunk beds) are simple and well maintained. Attractive bare-wood construction abounds and tea and snacks are always available.

"The food is excellent-vegetarian and organic, with much of it from the gardens on the property," says Jo Marie Thompson, a nurse at Harborview Trauma Center in Seattle, Washington, and a regular at Cloud Mountain since 1994. "All the staff and teachers I've encountered there are the epitome of pure-hearted spiritual seeking-humble, low-key, unassuming, but filled with great wisdom and kindness," Thompson says. "The founders bring the cream of the crop of Western Buddhist teachers to the center." As with many retreat centers, guests are asked to assist with daily chores such as chopping vegetables, washing dishes, and cleaning their own rooms at the end of their stay. "I've practiced at centers all over the world and in several states-Christian, Buddhist, and nondenominational-and there are none I would recommend more highly than Cloud Mountain," says Jo Marie Thompson. "It shifts my ideas of what we're here for and what's important in this life and in my work as a nurse," Thompson says. "I see it's not about saving lives as much as the smallest gestures of compassion we can show for one another."

The average daily cost is $50 per person, including meals and lodging. If there is a teaching retreat, teachers receive additional voluntary payment (as this is their only source of remuneration) on what is called a dana basis: spontaneous generosity of the heart. Toilets and hot shower facilities are in a separate building. There is shuttle service available from Portland International Airport. Cloud Mountain Retreat Center, 373 Agren Road, Castle Rock, WA 98611 888/465-9118 or 360/274-4859, cloudmountain.org/.

Karme Choling, Barnet, Vermont

"It's a cheerful yet relaxed atmosphere; I come away feeling completely refreshed even if my schedule is busy," says Arthur Borden, direct mail manager at the Vermont Teddy Bear Company in Burlington, Vermont. Karmê Choling, located on 540 acres of Vermont farmland and forest, has 13 shrine rooms, an organic vegetable garden, dining room (meals are not silent), dorms, seven cabins (for experienced, solitary retreatants only), a gift shop, and one additional feature that you won't see at many other centers: an azuchi (traditional Japanese archery range), where you learn Zen archery (kyudo). Zen archery? If you're wondering how that is different from the regular bow-and-arrow-and-bull's-eye variety, it turns out that the point isn't really about hitting the target. Not about the target at all. In fact, even the masters sometimes miss it completely.

"You follow a form, going through seven different steps, focusing on your connection to the earth and to your body and to the form," says Eric Ballou, a retreat assistant. "You don't really aim at the target. Where the arrow flies is not as important; it's more of a dance." Hmmmmm. If that's a bit too Zen to comprehend, you'll also find occasional programs in other traditional Japanese arts such as ikebana (flower arranging), chado (tea ceremony), and shodo (calligraphy), as well as Buddhist psychology and family programs. There is also Family Week once every summer. Parents have time to do meditation, and the staff takes care of the kids, though older children can practice meditation, too. It's more of a family vacation than a strict schedule of meditation, with barbecues (yes, there is even meat) and a big party at the end. There are not many recreational facilities, but the setting of rolling green hills is very picturesque Vermont, complete with barns in the distance, 200 acres with trails, a creek, and a pond stocked with koi and goldfish. "I meet people from all over the world-the people drawn to this place are interesting and interested in exploring the world," says Borden. "It's delightful."

The $30 a day per person cost can include everything-three meals, tuition-if you sleep in a tent and bring your own bedding or sleep on a foam mattress on the shrine floor; dorm and private rooms are $10-$50 a night extra. All shared bathrooms. Shuttle service from Amtrak and airports provided for additional fees Karmê Chooling, 369 Patneaude Lane, Barnet, VT 05821, 802/633-2384, shambhala.org/

Bhavana Society, High View, West Virginia

What best captures the informal spirit here is Bhavana's explanation about the fees: "There are no fixed charges; we operate on dana, which is money given freely from the heart," explains Lee Halfpenny, the executive director. Most other retreats say that as well, but they have some clearly defined fees for their room and board as guidelines, if not the additional dana one gives the teachers. At this Theravada ministry on 42 forested acres in West Virginia, just two hours from Washington, D.C., and one hour from Dulles International Airport, you'll find few frills. Days are spent alternating sitting meditation (beginning at 5:30 a.m.) with walking meditation.

Unlike the fast walking you will find practiced at the Zen Mountain Monastery in New York, "at the Bhavana Society we walk with excruciating slowness it takes roughly five full minutes to cross the 25-foot width of the meditation hall. "We look like big wading birds poking through a swamp," writes Dinty Moore in his book, The Accidental Buddhist. Bhavana has one unusual practice regarding its meals (simple vegetarian fare): Lunch is the last meal of the day, so instead of dinner there is yoga. But even self-confessed hearty eaters, such as Dinty Moore, say the trade-off is worth it. "By the end of the 30-minute yoga class, I feel warm and tingly virtually all across my sedentary, middle-aged, overweight body, and it is a fantastic sensation," writes Moore in his amusing account of his search for the essence of American Buddhism. "By the end of the second full day, I feel light as a small ball of cotton. All of the deep breathing has brought oxygen to corners of my brain and bloodflow to places in my body I had forgotten existed," the usually more cynical Moore admits.

Bhavana Society, a monastery as well as a retreat center, is headed by Abbot Bhante Gunaratana, author of one of the classic meditation manuals, Mindfulness in Plain English, and is open all year for retreats of varying lengths. "At the end of my first retreat I felt that if I had gone to the most distant corner of the world, I could not have been farther away," writes artist Libby Reid about her experience at the Bhavana Society retreat, in The Complete Guide to Buddhist America. "The practice of meditation has changed the way I experience the world I laugh more. I see more joy." And she goes back to Bhavana every year.

Here's what they say when you ask, "How much?": "We are frequently asked what is the suggested donation for retreats at Bhavana Society Meditation Center. We cannot answer that question because that would be like setting a price. The Buddha's teachings are priceless so we offer our service here for dana." I guess they hope you'll remember that the essence of dana is generosity. The Web site also lists some items besides money that you might donate as well-pots and pans, office chairs; the list is quite specific.

Bhavana Society, Rte. 1 Box 218-3, High View, WV 26808 304/856-3241, bhavanasociety.org/.

RESOURCES ON RETREATS

Find the Divine: findthedivine.com/; Listings and descriptions of over 1,100 retreat centers in the United States and about 150 in Canada.

Retreats International: retreatsintl.org/; Lists 340 retreat centers in the United States and Canada. (Book version available for $30.)

NARDA: nardacenters.org/; NARDA, Ecumenical Christian Association of Retreat and Renewal Centers and Leaders in North America, lists a few hundred Christian centers in the United States and Canada. BLURBCORRECTIONCLARIFICATION

Budget Lodgings at Spiritual Centers

New York City

The Leo House (332 W. 23rd St., 212/929-1010, fax 212/366-6801) was already a 100-year-long mainstay when its surrounding Chelsea district recently became a trendy center of chic restaurants, art galleries, nightspots, and the performing arts (don't miss the Joyce dance theater). Self-styled as "A Heart in New York," it has a wood-paneled breakfast room that today is filled with multilingual chatter as guests enjoy a $6 buffet, complete with home-baked breads. The emphasis here is on the quiet and clean. But it has all the creature comforts you'd want, including cable television and telephones, although in compact rooms. Some units have private baths; others share a shower, but all have a sink and toilet. Singles start at $62 and doubles at $70, with a few larger rooms for families.

St. Hilda's House (621 W. 113th St., 212/932-8098, ext. 345, outpourings@chssisters.org) is a big leap uptown, just steps from Riverside Church and the giant Cathedral Church of Saint John the Divine (a don't-miss sightseeing attraction). It is a retreat house of the Sisters of the Community of the Holy Spirit, consisting of three converted brownstones in which neat single rooms rent from $65 a night (there are three doubles, which cost $130 a night), and most guests share a bathroom. The nuns center their lives around daily prayer services, and anyone who spends the night is invited to join them.

Landmark Guest Rooms (3041 Broadway, 212/280-1313, tcabrera@uts.colum bia.edu) of the Union Theological Seminary near the Upper West Side's Columbia University, with its English Gothic architecture and tree-filled quad, is like a time machine transporting you to the past. And yet its recently redecorated rooms all have air-conditioning, cable television, a mini-fridge, and private bath. With continental breakfast included, single rooms start at $150, making this one of the priciest of our properties.

The House of the Redeemer (7 E. 95th St., 212/289-0399, fax 212/410-7899, info@redeem.org), on the elegant Upper East Side of Manhattan near Museum Mile (Metropolitan, Guggenheim, Frick), is a retreat where guests in the third- and fourth-floor rooms sleep under the same roof that once housed Edith Shepard Fabbri, Cornelius Vanderbilt's great-granddaughter. Ms. Fabbri donated the house to be used as "a place apart," and it's often filled with quiet groups. When it's not, others can enjoy its splendid fifteenth-century Italian library and newly redesigned chapel that overlooks Central Park. Rooms in this peaceful bit of paradise start at $60 for a single with a shared bath.

Chicago

Urban Meditation Retreat Center (1710 W. Cornelia Ave., 773/528-8685, fax 773/528-9909, buddha@enteract. com) is a quiet beacon for those with busy lives, particularly blessed by its pleasant sunroom and open deck devoted to restful reflection. At this Zen Buddhist temple, visitors attend early morning meditation and stay on the fourth floor, which has been fitted out with single or dormitory-style rooms with access to kitchen facilities. Located only 15 minutes from downtown by bus or elevated train, it attracts young professionals with accommodations priced at only $45 a night.

Imani House (1340 E. 72nd St., 773/643-0359), whose name means "faith" in Swahili, is a rambling building that over the years has served as both a Catholic rectory and a convent, and is now a lodgings place for transient visitors when people on formal retreats are not in residence. Up to 35 guests can choose rooms that range from singles to triples, and the kitchen, dining room, and sitting rooms make it feel like home. Somewhat off the beaten track, this South Shore facility varies prices to match group size and season, but in general the charge is $15 per person per night.

Bethlehem House (1125 North La Salle Blvd., 312/642-3638) is next door to the Convent of St. Anne, in the heart of Chicago, and both buildings date from the late nineteenth century. The guesthouse, which once served as a butler's residence, has five single rooms with a shared bath. Its quiet convenience costs just $25 a night.

Benedictine Bed and Breakfast (3111 S. Aberdeen St., 888/539-4261, fax 773/927-5734, porter@chicagomonk.org) is a two-bedroom loft apartment operated by monks dedicated to their order's long tradition of caring for travelers. They offer far more than the usual B&B amenities, including a dataport in each bedroom, a fax machine, and secure, off-street parking. With a complete kitchen, dining area, and study, there's plenty of space for up to four guests. Rates range from $145 to $185 per night with breakfast treats such as pineapple topped with Wisconsin maple syrup, delivered to the door with a morning newspaper. It's even possible to make reservations via their Web site at www.chicagomonk.org.

San Francisco

San Damiano Friary (573 Dolores St., 415/861-1372, fax 415/861-7952) is just two blocks from the historic Mission San Francisco de Assisi, the city's oldest structure. Both it and its neighbor, St. Francis House (see below), are run by orders associated with the city's namesake. Visitors to San Damiano stay in simple single rooms with a shared bath, for a self-determined donation. Despite the brothers' busy schedules, which include work in health care, teaching, and the arts, their hospitality includes sharing their evening meal.

St. Francis House (3743 Cesar Chavez St., 415/824-0288, fax 415/826-7569) is also in the area known as the Mission District. The nuns here welcome visitors to a small guest apartment that sleeps three and comes with a complete kitchen. Set off from the street, it also has a garden that is ideal for quiet reflection. The donation is $30 a night.

Incarnation Priory (1601 Oxford St., Berkeley, 510/548-3406, ohcmonks@ohcmonks.org.), just a 20-minute ride on the BART train system from San Francisco proper, is a short walk up the hill from the BART station and right on the edge of the UC Berkeley campus, near coffee bars and bookstores. Don't be put off by the apartment-house exterior; this is a real Anglican priory with a complete guest apartment (housing as many as four) on the second floor. The priory asks $40 per night for the entire apartment.

Incarnation Monastery (1369 La Loma Ave., Berkeley, 510/548-0965) will require a bus or taxi, but it's well worth the trip. The monastery is built on the side of a hill with a sweeping view that includes the Golden Gate Bridge and the mountains beyond. The $45-per-night guest rooms share bathrooms, but breakfast is included. And the splendor of the setting is enhanced by the stillness of the monastery.

The San Francisco Zen Center (300 Page St., 415/863-3136, ccoffice@sfzc.org), just a block from very hip Haight Street, refers to its guest facility simply as the "City Center." Here guests will find single and double rooms, some with private baths, renting from $55 to $93. While those rates do not include meals, vegetarian fare is plentiful and available at the Center for under $8 a big plate. This elegant building was designed by Hearst Castle architect Julia Morgan; its impressive courtyard invites introspection and relaxation.